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Yellow Coat: Melding Sew-In Interlining to Boucle

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I’m finally getting beyond the cutting and into the assembly of the yellow mood coat, using New Look 6832. boucle 6832cut

This boucle has a nice hand but is prone to stretching and is loosely woven, allowing for the construction details to show through to the outside of the garment. I originally cut natural colored silk organza as an interfacing so that this coat could be worn Spring, Summer and Fall but then realized that the turn of the hem might show through. After a quick check of the stash and a confirmation from Pam that this Light version would be the least insulating, Pro-Woven Standard #1 Light interfacing from Fashion Sewing Supply was chosen as interlining instead of the organza.

After cutting out the interlining and fashion fabric I pin the interlining to the boucle in preparation for basting the two fabrics together.

In the photo below you’re looking at the armscye of the sleeve and you can see the silk pins being inserted in the seam allowance.

prep

I just pin the top of the pieces together and then tack them with longer, ball headed pins to the dress form so that the boucle can relax before I pin all the sides and lower edges together. This is the back piece in 3 views:

side2 side

No need to adjust your monitor, the dress form is not leaning either. It’s the camera work that slightly tilted!

back

You can see that this is a long expanse of fabric and there is plenty of room for the fashion fabric to bunch or droop against the stable interlining so I will let the pieces hang over night just to be sure all the potential for stretch in gone.

When I get to the basting step I will use a silk thread and baste down the center and inside the body of each piece as well as just outside the seam allowances all around the piece. Then I’ll need to tailor tack the stitching lines, matching up the plaid as best as possible. I cut wide seam allowances so adjustments can be made.

Yes, I did make a muslin for a change :) Amazing what an expensive fabric will do for my sewing levels…. Anyway, I’ve added to the pattern 2″ x 6″ flanges to prevent the pocket bags from showing should the coat gap when seated.

pocket extensions

I also narrowed the width of the sleeves from below the elbow to the hem about one inch in circumference and will shorten the coat so that it can be worn with both dresses and pants. I think that this will be better proportions for a person under 5’3″.

This pattern is nicely drafted and fits together well. Now I just need to get through the tedious, but vital step of melding the interlining to the boucle so they can behave as one in the finished garment.

To steal a lovely convention from Summerset:

Parting shots:

Look who has survived the past two days of snow and freezing temperatures each night! Brave, beautiful, strong red tulips!!!

tulip bed

Pretty!

tulip

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About Mary Beth

I am fascinated by changing patterns and colored threads. I sew garments and am teaching myself to machine knit. Since selling the building that housed my workrooms, The Stitchery, I'm searching for a place to set up the knitting machines again. There must be room here somewhere!

7 responses »

  1. The fabric is gorgeous and I am glad that Pam could help you find the right interfacing.
    Working with expensive fabrics is both a joy and a challenge but of course you will succeed in making a beautiful coat.
    Lovely tulips and finally it seems spring is in the air.

    Reply
  2. Your coat will be lovely!

    What length do you consider to be good for wearing with both dresses and pants? I’ve been wondering about this for a while.

    Reply
    • Hi Lisa: I am thinking about making it about 3″ above the knee, car coat length. Of course, a test might change that plan so I’ll settle on the length before I add the extra interfacing for the hemline.

      I wear mostly straight skirts and the slight flare of coat should work with that length. I’m changing the style lines by using the stiffer interfacing so length and sleeve volume will depend on my personal body proportions.

      Have you tried this length? How did it work for your?

      Reply
  3. I have a coat that’s about 3 inches above the knees, but it doesn’t have the flair of yours. So far I’ve only worn it with pants and wear a longer coat with skirts. I really need another coat and have been wondering if I could make one coat to wear with both. Thanks so much for your thoughts on this.

    Reply
  4. I will have to remember the hanging part…sometimes I get the buckle where the interlining and the fashion fabric fight with each other and I bet if I add this oen step, I won’t have this problem any more! Thanks for the tip!

    Reply
  5. WOnderful spring fabric. This will be a marvellous coat. A few tulips are flowering in my garden already too, so happy spring is finally there.

    Reply
  6. That will be a wonderful coat! I’ve made garments where I’ve left the pieces pinned to the dress form for the same reason – so that all the “hang” will be gone and the two fabrics won’t fight each other. The tulips are beautiful – worth stealing!

    Reply

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