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Gusseted Magyar & Turban: 60′s Edith Head Pattern

Newly arrived in the mail from Vintage Fashion Library

1950-1960 Edith Head pattern

A boxy early 60′s Edith Head pattern: a skirt, blouse, jacket and … Yes … a turban!

Edith Head Pieces

lined, interfaced and underlined “magyar” style jacket with side panel and gusset cut in one

Magyar Drawing

I got curious about the Magyar draft

Magyar Draft

last January when I bought the book Coat & Skirt Making by Samuel Heath FCI

I’ve never worn a turban much less made one so I feel a great excitement creeping in :)

Suggested fabric: cotton suitings, pique, linen, blends, silk linen, faille, satin, silk tweed, wood crepe, tweed, flannel, jersey, blends. Hmmm, quite a bit of variation allowed. Ohhh, the stash will be searched extensively!!!

I’ll have to grade up 2 sizes but i think I can do that without too much trouble. I have a grading tool I’ve never tried before. Our dear Fashion Incubator author, Kathleen Fasanella, ALMOST reviewed it in 2006 in her post on Grading Machines and Rulers and it was ALMOST discussed in 2004 at Pattern Review: Pattern grading ruler: New gizmo!! but it was the Gizmo not to be reviewed so I’ll give it a bit of description here.

(I haven’t used it yet…still slowly finishing up the coat. I used to be able to do many things at once but no longer, it seems…anyway…)

I admit I lost track of this Gismo for a very long time but found it again during the clean out this summer. Here’s some pictures taken before the camera finally died a couple of days ago:

100_2116

100_2119

I tried to find an active link for retail purchase of this Gismo but there doesn’t seem to be one any more. Not to worry, I don’t believe it is worth the money I spent on it and I’ll give you links to probably much better sources.

This Grade Master is ridiculously simple and helpful mostly because it shows how the grain line should be lying under the clear Plexiglas. But other than that it is a simple procedure of extending incrementally to the seam line: (measuring visually) it is 6mm at the collar end, center front and back, neck point front & back, and sleeve crown; 5mm at the sleeve head (which, I believe,means at the width of the sleeve cap), 3mm at the cuff and 12mm to the side seams. Calipers would be more accurate than my eye but since this little tool is unavailable I think this approximation should suffice.

Different drafting tools and systems most likely will have different increments and I’m sure most readers would like to hear about your particular system for grading, if you care to share in the comments.

Currently available guides to grading patterns:

Threads’ Making Sense of Pattern Grading

Connie Crawford’s Grading Workbook

Fun Ahead! Happy Sewing :)

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About Mary Beth

I am fascinated by changing patterns and colored threads. I sew garments and am teaching myself to machine knit. Since selling the building that housed my workrooms, The Stitchery, I'm searching for a place to set up the knitting machines again. There must be room here somewhere!

13 responses »

  1. Sorry I wasn’t more helpful Mary Beth. I never did buy one. Don’t remember what I thought was the problem, either cost or shipping or maybe a combination of both. Which is not to say I wouldn’t want to look at yours up close. I click on the photo and it tells me I don’t have permission.

    Reply
  2. I can’t wait to see this outfit made up. I love the style.

    Reply
  3. Okay, is there some sort of turban revival happening? Check this out: http://kuki.deprada.net/?p=601 – is that not a great-looking quasi-turban?

    Reply
  4. I am really loving 60′s revival this year for some reason. Wish I could wear it, but close fit + a boxy cut does not a good garment make for me. (I never thought about it before, but really “close fit” and “boxy cut”? What is up with that, 1960′s?)

    Turbans I will have to mull over for a while I think. I’ll be curious to see you wearing yours!!

    Reply
  5. I look forward to seeing how that turban works out, I hope you will share the results with us.
    And thanks for visiting my blog!
    Cristina

    Reply
  6. Sounds like a great new adventure! I’ll be interested to see how this one turns out, turban and all.

    Reply
  7. Mary Beth .- ahhhh … that joy to see this link. Cristina is one of my best friends .. This afternoon we were together.

    http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_piQWejWqDKo/Sk-5B_BgkxI/AAAAAAAAC7s/Bn9Vlkd5kp8/s1600-h/13.JPG

    Reply
  8. That suit will be terrific on you Mary Beth! And I’d love to find an easy to use grading tool.

    Reply
  9. Pingback: It’s About Time « The Stitchery

  10. Pingback: My Favorite Waistband Is None at All! « The Stitchery

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