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Vogue 8759 Man’s Shirt

Back of man's shirt

I cut the original pattern with no adjustments in size 46 in a light blue cambric pinpoint and we had a try on.  I hated it!  It looked like a school boy’s shirt but maybe that was because of the traditional fabric. And it was not appealing because it didn’t look like a proper “work shirt”,  I could see this style  cut with the mandarin collar but not with the collar and stand as I need to make.

V8759

The yoke is drafted to seam at .5″ below the shoulder point, not dropped like a proper yoke, the sleeve has enough ease in it that there might be gathers when inserted.  But oddly enough the collar might just fit my husband’s 18.25 inch neck.  I wish Vogue would print the collar length on the pattern somewhere so that those of us who are serious about making a fitted man’s shirt could chose the proper size.  But they don’t.

I don’t trust my measuring ability to accurately tell me just exactly how long that collar is. Between the pattern’s tissue paper that is inaccurate by it’s very nature, and the exact placement of a measuring tape, millimeters can be lost or gained.  Ah, well.  No shirts are built by stressing over the small details, right?  But I did have my day of pouting.

I lowered the shoulder seam line and by like subtraction I extended the shoulder yoke, shortened the shoulder seam, cut the armscye lower and wider, added fabric over the torso, and added 3″ to the length of the garment. I did not alter the sleeve pattern. And I did not alter for my husbands dropped shoulder and leaning stature. These details of sewing for him have completely stopped my suit making. One day I will overcome. Pray for me.

adjustments

I cut the cloth and basted the shell together.
front of man's shirt

Button Stand left open

Side of man's shirt

It looks like the sleeve could be rotated in the armscye a touch towards the back. How odd. This sleeve has a high cap, again that’s odd considering that most men’s shirt patterns have a flat sleeve cap.

But that’s why I like this patten: it has a taste of side shaping, and high and tight armscye, a long collar band and some shape and finesse to the sleeve.

So Onward I go, now to cut 4 more shirts as accurately as possible from a tissue. I don’t know of a garment that needs the most accurate and nuanced cutting as a man’s shirt. And for a picky man, the bottom line is how comfortable it feels, who can blame them?

Vogue 1208 Quick and Easy Elegance

Back of dress

I made this dress for a one day meet-up last year. Due to bad weather the flight home that evening was cancelled and I had to stay an extra day. I had not planned on spending the night so I had to wear this for 2 whole days. Oh boy. I can go for some glamor once in a while but 2 days? That’s really pushing me to my limits.

Fabric

But I liked wearing this dress and 2 days worth was not a problem. The fabric is a finely pleated black and white polka dot polyester from GorgeousFabrics.com, and it proved to be absolutely wrinkle-proof. The fit was comfortable and I had the yellow coat I made and blogged about for the whole month of April 2009 with me. That was a great comfy coat to wear, too. And I had brought flats, Yay Me! Disaster averted.

done!

The pattern is to be laid out on the bias but I cut cross grain to take advantage of the inherent stretch of the pleats. I cut a size 12 through the bodice and flared to a 14 below the waist.

Front

I lined on the bias with black cling free poly lining which I trimmed with black lace at the hem. I cut the lining with extra width so that it could relax into place on my body. The bow at the shoulder is black and white silk chiffon as is the simple rectangle wrap I made.

V1208Line Drawing

What an easy and quick but comfy and stylish design. I really enjoyed sewing it up and wearing it. I can recommend this simple but interesting shift for many different body shapes.

We finally got some rain and the humidity and wind is poofing up my hair big time. It’s getting wider and shorter with every passing minute. I was feeling like I might go airborne a la The Flying Nun before I could finish doing this photo shoot :).

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M4392 McCalls Sew News Coordinates

Front

Back

Full Length Front

This pattern has skirt, pant,top with side slits sleeves and with sleeves, and jacket in a casual style for wovens. I made the sleeveless top in linen.

M4392 OOP

The pants are again Vogue 8915, shown here over and over for the past 7 weeks.

I lengthened the top by 2″, and increased the depth of the neckline facings to allow for 1 3/8″ deep topstitching instead of the 1″ called for in the pattern.

I cut a 12 through the neckline, 14 for the armscye and 16 through the bust angling out to 18+ for the waist and hipline. I made no other changes.

If I make this again, I need to lower the bust darts and perhaps cut more room through the bust. My weight changes all the time and I am sewing for linen that comes from the dryer without benefit of an iron. This means it will relax and stretch with body warmth and movement. I’ll write these alteration notations on the front of the envelope so I should see it if I make this top again and haven’t dropped in weight.

I like this pattern esp since I lowered the hemline. The armscye is snug but not too tight. Good pattern for me.

McCalls 6244 Tee Shirt

McCalls 6244

I cut the medium size out last week and only sewed it up yesterday. I raised the front neckline by 3/4″, widened the sleeves by the same and used a pivot and slide method to add 1.5″ to the hip width. This is a colorful but thin cotton jersey ripened many years on the shelf. I only had a yard so this is it.

Real life: broken refrigerators, stripping floors, kitchen reorganization and a surprising flea invasion have tried to take over but have been conquered (almost). Frontline Plus is not working. It’s down to flea combs, traps, baths, and daily vacuuming of everything. They’ve invaded the neighborhood. I have one word: rabbits. But I blame almost everything on rabbits so don’t trust me on this. It could well be slacking humans.

Putting Pieces Together

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Mingling the old with the new
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I’m wearing the lace top and silvery gray tee from McCall’s 6244, made in Dec 2010, and rayon pants purchased in the early 90′s. I have to admit I am so comfortable in baggier pants and higher necklines these days, I am intentionally cutting loose pants and wearing tops backwards :)
M6244McCall's 6244
I have shamelessly washed and dried the lace in the machines and wear it without worrying about the fraying edges or ironing it. I like the “distressed” look and find myself wearing it often.
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I now wear that lace top backwards because the front hem area was cut too high to suit me. The neck is higher and I’m liking necklines that are higher these days.

New clothes from Summer 2013

The silver gray tee can be worn by itself over the bright colored pants I made this summer. I like it loosely tucked in the top of the new yellow pants best.

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The yellow pants are exactly the same cut as the green pants but the difference is in the fabric. The green is a very soft hand, silk twill, the yellow is a harder silk twill and even though the weight of the two fabrics seems to be the same the fit and flow are quite different
Green and olive
Here is the green pant with the Dutch Wax print and I think the match is much better than the olive branch print. There is some of the same green in the olive print but it isn’t seen in the wearing
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Because of the cut on sleeve these tops tend to ride up if the belt is not worn
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McCalls 6753
I made the dress, View D,
M6753View D
in silk charmeuse. I wore it over the green pants for dinners out to celebrate our birthdays earlier this month. It works over the yellow pants as well
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I am tempted to shortened it but at this length I can also wear it as a dress (beware: blindingly pale skin alert!)
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The sides of this tunic are closed only to the hip so a very long tee is absolutely necessary
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and it is cut very low in the neckline. I know that it is generally acceptable to show a bit of decolletage but this is too much!
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So when wearing this tunic out I am more comfortable wearing the silver gray tee backwards as I did in the photos of it with the yellow pants.
Gray top backwards

Well, I think I’ve caught up with all the sewing done in the past few weeks. I’m happy that so many pieces can be interchanged.

More Later
Happy Sewing!

Vogue 1364 Easy Warm Weather Jacket

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Darts Side Front

Sandra Betzina’s summer 2013 jacket pattern, Vogue 1364, is unlined and has no front closing mechanism. Fortunately the pattern is drafted so well the front pieces lie nicely with no need for constantly arranging the fronts.

Front

Ann at GorgeousFabrics.com offered this polyester, acetate, and acrylic fabric as a FOTD, (Fabric Of The Day) a offering she makes to her GorgeousFabrics FaceBook friends at a deep discount and the colors are perfect for so many different pieces in my wardrobe and on my stash shelves. I took advantage of her, er, her generous offer and bought 3 yards. What a steal!

Fabric Closeup

It is a dry clean only fabric and I usually don’t tolerate having such in the stash but I couldn’t say no to the pretty colors. I researched the fabric components and have decided I may try to hand wash and lay flat to dry.

V1364

I did not make the fringed version of this pattern, nor did I do all the extra folding down the back piece. Instead I used the wrong side of the fabric in the inverted triangle on the back. It really didn’t have the contrast factor I had in mind. It shows so much better on the pattern model

V1364

I missed an opportunity for an excellent embellishment and If I make this pattern again I’ll make that V shape more glitzy

Back

Let me just say this fabric made the whole sewing process a joy. I wasn’t up for fancy complicated stuff, I simply serged the edges and turned under 2x to finish the edges. I started out with a very cool iron due to the acetate and acrylic content but kicked it up to a wool setting and steamed the folds. No sheen or shine, no bunching under the iron and no melting on the sole plate. I didn’t want to do a Hong Kong finish and since this fabric was so darned easy to work I flat felled the seams.

Now that I see photos of this jacket on me I think it could stand to lose an inch or more of length. And I should take the time to make some shoulder pads as recommended. It’s been a long while since I’ve sewn up a Sandra Betzina pattern and I have such a rotten attitude toward pattern instructions her amount of verbiage made me nervous.

However, she packs in great tips and techniques, it’s worth the reading time to take it all in.

This turned out to be a really fun sewing experience, thanks to the fabric and to the well-drafted pattern and excellent instructions.

More V8915 Tops

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Pattern perfected I have been sewing up casual sets for daily wear. This pattern is simply too easy to sew and uses 1 to 1.5 yards of fabric depending on the width.

Japanese Cotton left over from making my husband’s kimono a few years ago. Hmmm, the photos over there are better pictures.

Japanese Cotton, Belt is made from the wrong side

The belt is made from the wrong side of the fabric as is the Kimono for my husband. He loves blue.

Back of the Japanese Cotton

More cotton tops from fabric purchased years ago while in Paducha, KY, at the Quilt Show when I and Diane Tatara worked the Wild Ginger booth together. I’ve been waiting for the right pattern to come along

2 more

The green one is a print of olive fruits and leaves on a lime green background and the other is a Dutch Wax print (my fav, I could look at it all day)

Here’s the back. I didn’t get the swags to met exactly perfectly but I can live with it (I think). I don’t want OCD to take over!
dutch wax back

The garment had to be pieced because I only bought 1.5 yards and it was very narrow

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The patch is difficult to see under the arm and in this snazzy print. I have more to show but that will be another post

Vogue 8915 New Top

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Orange Front
Finished this top today in a well-aged cotton sateen.
Orange Back
I cut a medium through the shoulders to the bottom of the armscye and flared out to an XXL at the hips. I lengthened it to the length of the XXL and made a 1.5″ hem
Front
I was hoping that the medium size would cover my bra straps but no, the neckline is open to the top of my shoulder bones. This design calls for pretty bra straps.
Neckline
I like how easy it is to sew up though and even might make a third version in linen again, it’s so enjoyable to wear.

Vogue 8915

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Quick post today. I have been sewing, or was before I needed to make a quick business trip this week. This is a study of results from sewing V8915.

This is a very heavy tencel pant in Extra Extra Large, nice and flowing but a bit overly large wouldn’t you say?

XXLPurpFront

This is a linen pant done in XL and linen top in Large, extended out to XL at the hips.

XL pants, top is Large, to XL at hipsBack

Front

This is a very lightweight rayon in Large with the hipline curve removed. Sorry for the blurry pix, and the garden dirt. These pants have been worn quite a bit already.

BlFrontLarge

I cut the back piece at XL to keep the pant full

BlBack

On all the pants I pegged the lower leg and hem down to the Large cutting line.

The top is much roomier than I want through the shoulders so next trial will be a medium. I bought the pattern in both size offerings. Off to the sewing room!

ADDED 7/29 Here’s the pattern illustration and line drawings. The hem for the XXL is 17″ on the pattern. I narrowed them all to 15″
V8915Ill
V8915

Advance 4236: Sister-Wife Lounging

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I have permanent press fabric I bought to make shirts for my husband but then found better fabric so with yardage sitting on the shelf and hot weather nightgowns and bed jackets on the mind I paired some cornflower blue cotton with a 1946 Advance pattern

I call it my Sister-Wife creation.

Believe me, it was worse before I adding shaping to the bed jacket. And now I remember why I don’t like permanent press: it doesn’t press well, has zero drape and it stains quite easily.

I don’t believe many more words are necessary:

Envelope front

Envelop back

Instructions

Pattern piece-No seam lines, holes for marking

Gown Back Gown Front

I elongated the top stitched darts at the shoulder by 1.25″ and 1.5″, nipped the side seams at the waist, and added released darts below the bust. That actually helped remove some of the boxy, cover up and look sexless aspects of the shape.
Bed Jacket

side Front

Gaely got a haircut but I didn’t
Gaely got a haircut but I didn't

And for those that don’t let the prudishness of my new Sister-Wife lounging ensemble keep them far away, I’ve got a surprise:

Hello!

hehehehehe

PS: my honey needs to get new glasses.

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