Ah, both my internet access and blogger seem to be in a cooperative mood so I’ll post this now. I wasn’t quite ready but will add more in the coming days…. My model is wearing a shirt made 3 years ago. The shirt was not perfect but he has enjoyed wearing it. Now to improve upon the cut.
OK, here is the body type: Thick neck, long waist length, short arms, thick rounded and forward shoulders, asymmetrical shoulder shape and length, extended tummy, narrow hips.
This is corrected by adding to the width at the side seams below the armscye junction. I have added 1.5 inches to both the front and back side seams in my muslin work and that gave me side seams perpendicular to the ground and enough room over the tummy but I didn’t like the lack of ease over the tummy nor the extra fullness in the back. Off the Cuff Style also gives flat pattern adjustments example for making this type of alternation.
I have seen where this is a dressmaking rule: the width of the front should equal the width of the back but I think I’ll break that rule…And reduce the back width while adding the same to the width of the front. With this body type I like the narrowness of the back piece and will try to conserve that aspect.
Note that this shirt did not utilize a back pleat…I don’t remember if I just forgot to put it in or if I was experimenting with the fit without it but you can see some strain lines as well as folds from leaning against a backrest while sitting.
Refer back to the first photo and you will see lots of extra fabric in the front of the sleeve. This has allowed for freedom of movement with such a close-fitted torso.
I am deepening the shoulder yoke in my new muslin. My model’s shoulders are thick and rounded and the 3″ deep yoke seems to disappear.
Below you can see where the top of the shoulder of the pre-existing shirt is dropping over the edge of the shoulder but the armscye is cut too small to lie well. This is one case where a bit of fading is actually useful. I am cutting a larger armscye this time. This shirt is overly fitted and almost feminine in the fit.
This side shot shows the front of the shoulder yoke in a fairly good position under the ear but yet the depth of the back neck is too shallow. I also want to move the shoulder/yoke seam forward by maybe a half inch. The collar/neck problems don’t present if the collar is not buttoned. The collar on this shirt is actually too long by 1″ but the unwanted length is in the very center front. The area for the neck needs to be widened everywhere except the front.
This front shot shows the extra fabric around the front armscye. It’s high and tight in the back and too wide and long in the front. I’m working to present a more appropriate and manly shirt cut that can be used as dress shirt with or without a tie.
I want to thank my model. I’m pretty sure he didn’t know he’d be a model when he took a few minutes out of his work day for these shots. This is the best way I’ve found to analyze the fit of a fast moving, hard working man. Make a duck tape double? I don’t think so (hehehehehe)
And now for something totally frivolous:
|You Are 45% Left Brained, 55% Right Brained|
|The left side of your brain controls verbal ability, attention to detail, and reasoning.Left brained people are good at communication and persuading others.If you’re left brained, you are likely good at math and logic.Your left brain prefers dogs, reading, and quiet.
The right side of your brain is all about creativity and flexibility.Daring and intuitive, right brained people see the world in their unique way.If you’re right brained, you likely have a talent for creative writing and art.Your right brain prefers day dreaming, philosophy, and sports.