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Fitting the Muslin

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While my model quietly worked on a CAD program this afternoon I got to spend a few more hours hacking and stitching up this pink shirt shell. He has not complained about the color, but I am quite ready to complain! OK, it’s not the color so much as the poor quality of the fabric: it’s off grain and stretches. You can see the stretched out fabric at the back of the yoke below the neck. Time to move on to real fabric before I totally lose interest! Good thing I’ve finished off the bolt…just enough left to cut and insert sleeves for a sleeve pattern.


I have cut down the height of the collar stand to 1.25″ and it definitely improves the “set” of the collar. The collar itself will need to be narrowed and shaped to cover a tie. I think I’m in the ball park with using a 19.75″ collar and I’m pretty happy with the shape of the neckline. I am thinking that I need to work with better quality fabric and get the collar done right in fabric that doesn’t stretch so badly.

The left shoulder could still use some tweaking. I vacillate between cutting each side exactly to fit and trying to find a happy medium with both sides fitting pretty well. I definitely don’t like the look of an “overfitted” shirt. But I’m soooo picky, that I can see where the back pleat is not exactly on center of his back even though it is in the center of the pattern piece. Bleh, my “eye” is quite critical. No wonder the woodworkers hold their breathes when I review a new piece.


I have slanted out the front sides almost to my satisfaction…I could add just a touch to bring the side seam into perpendicular status. I’ll spare you the details of that shot! I curved or shaped the back side seams, slightly angling in to the waist and with this back view I think that I can angle in even more.

Next step, cut and insert the sleeves to get a feel for the proper depth of the armscye.

Then, I will be rid of Pink Muslin!!! And move on to some great shirting!!!

I’m thinking that the collar pattern can only be made after I get the collar stand faced and stitched to the collar. The turn of the cloth and the curve on the neck will effect the overall length of the pattern piece.

I think that the chicken will properly come before the egg in this instance: the collar before the pattern.


About Mary Beth

I am fascinated by changing patterns and colored threads. I sew garments and am teaching myself to machine knit. Since selling the building that housed my workrooms, The Stitchery, I'm searching for a place to set up the knitting machines again. There must be room here somewhere!

4 responses »

  1. MB, it’s amazing the difference those little changes have made! And what a good sport your DH is.

  2. The deeper yoke looks better, and I like the pleat too. Can you mark his CB on the yoke and put the pleat there instead of at the yoke’s centre? I should add that I probably wouldn’t have noticed if you hadn’t mentioned it. Also, you won’t be able to completely disguise that the model isn’t symmetrical, so don’t fret too much.

    The collar stand looks as if it fits really well now. For goodness sake, move on to some better fabric! A collar that’s off-grain and stretches will drive you nuts.

  3. Good sport he is but only because I explained that I need to finish a job before I can properly start another. So, I lied a leeetle bit but he thinks he’s doing me a favor and being nice. “Nice” I can handle. But they sure don’t like to stand still much, do they?

    I am going to cut a 5″ sleeve cap. The shoulder drop looks to be generally 1″. I hope it doesn’t really require a 4″ because !pink! is done, over, kaputz! It’s had its day.

  4. MB, don’t stress about the CB pleat until you get your sleeves in. Things may look different. You know how I feel about fitting a sleeved garment without the sleeves…–>


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