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Collar Shapes

I should probably join the Beta Bloggers so that I can categorize my entries…The shirt saga starts in the September archives with Colin Knits and I Sew Shirt Muslins.

Collar
This is my usual MO: right before I am going to really need something, I loan it out, give it away, or lose it, somehow. My karma’s funny that way. So this maxim has proven true again with my Shirtmaking book by David Page Coffin.

I have struggled with that book for years, cursing the way it’s organized and not well indexed. You have to read the whole thing and remember where everything is to get the info on one topic.

But now that I need it for the templates…you know, I’m pretty sure I’ve loaned it to someone and I’m very happy to buy another…I can’t find it.

You don’t know what you’ve got ’til it’s gone!

None-the-less, I push on and have a RTW shirt collar I can duplicate. The pattern piece would have you create a collar that is is shaped only by the seam that attaches to the collar stand and the collar stand itself. Neither of those seams are very curved whereas my intended victim, ahem, recipient is very curved though the neck and shoulders.

Without the benefit of DPC in my studio I’ll rely on the RTW shirt for the shape of the pattern.

And since I have soooo many things to obsess about I decided to use the pocket with the imperfect embroidery. I think I and now you might be the only ones to notice on this busy fabric. It will be stuffed with pens and cell phone and notebooks so it might be all right…What do you think?

poc2

Oh, by the way, I was able to study a solid white less expensive Brooks Brothers shirt: the pocket fold was the same depth as the Islander pattern piece. Later I examined a patterned shirt that was more expensive and the pocket fold was deeper. I think that the pattern piece would work well in a solid color but that my intuition was correct in making a bolder shape on the patterned fabric.

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About Mary Beth

I am fascinated by changing patterns and colored threads. I sew garments and am teaching myself to machine knit. Since selling the building that housed my workrooms, The Stitchery, I'm searching for a place to set up the knitting machines again. There must be room here somewhere!

2 responses »

  1. I’m with you on the frustrations of Coffin’s “Shirtmaking”, I think it needed a good editor. Despite that, I have used it a lot.

    The pocket looks fine, only another perfectionist sewer will notice. Your topstitching and stripe matching is so much better than most.

    It’s interesting how much the collar shaping in the collar/stand seam varies from pattern to pattern. KS 2777 doesn’t have a lot, the more fitted ’70’s Butterick pattern I’m using for my younger son has a lot more. It fit really nicely with a tie. I guess I don’t worry about it a lot on my husband’s KS 2777 shirts as he never wears a tie with them. Another aspect of shirts to explore…

    Reply
  2. Pingback: The Shirt « The Stitchery

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