At risk of earning a label of “Personal Life Blogger” by blogging outside sewing and knitting I bring you Martini, Reigning Cat. I am simply putty in an animal’s paws.
She has been sneezing and suffering from post nasal drip beyond her usual cat slobber. Oh yes, that’s !yuk!, but I can live with all sorts of biological hazards without alarm since I was raised on a farm. Martini is very allergic to many things and in this case I suspect ragweed blooming for her malady. But I think we have cross-species infection as I now feel something like a cold coming on. I’m using Zicam for the first time so we’ll see how it goes. I love Martini, whose little eyes can become quite blue when she’s totally freaked, but have noticed that the following statements are definitely myths:
1. Cats are domesticated
2. Cats are clean
I blame my cold for not finishing up the collar and collar stand yesterday. I felt like all thumbs and slower than molasses. The stand facing, with the softer fusible interfacing, has been sewn to the neck edge and the collar has been constructed and attached to the stand to within 3″ of the center front on the neck.
I am following the Islander pattern’s instructions. When it comes to the section entitled “Collar” the pattern says,
Note: When making View A, proceed to step H, and omit the collar instructions.
I just couldn’t figure that one out and I spent at least an hour puzzling through it (another reason that I don’t like to follow pattern instructions, I try to believe everything when I read when following technical writing). If I followed the instructions I would not have a collar at all. Step H has you attaching the finished collar to the stand and proceeding on with the famous “burrito” technique. Here is the sandwich of stand facing, completed collar and public side stand with its stiff sew-in Verishape interfacing all sewn to the neck edge within 3″ of the center front.
I bought the Verishape interfacing from The Sewing Place after I decided I didn’t like “Shirt Tailor” by Pellon, purchased from the local Hancock’s. This is the first time I’ve used it and since I’m working with my own pattern, I am basting the Verishape to the fabric and then cutting back .25″ from the cut edge of the pattern piece. I have yet to cut away the edge that attaches to the neck edge. I’m not so particular in getting this part absolutely perfect as I can pull any threads of the Verishape after the stitching that remain in the seam allowance.
The Islander pattern instructions tell you to keep the interfacing the same size as the pattern for the fashion fabric in order to have nice crisp edges. It also tells you to use fusibles for both the soft interfacing and the stiff interfacing. If you are using all fusible interfacings there is no need to remove the interfacings from the seam allowance. You will just have slightly, very slightly, fatter seams and edges.
The pattern also does not distinguish between the upper collar and the under collar. Only one pattern piece for both pieces. I removed 1/8″ from the edges of the undercollar so that the proper roll could be made on the public side of the collar. Here you can see the slight turn of the cloth over to the underside of the collar.
The next step is to sew the curve of the collar stand. I have made a template of the curve and traced it onto the inside collar stand so that I can make as perfect a curve as possible.
Here is the beginning of sewing the collar stand edge.
Here is the collar and shirt tucked away from the center front seam in prep for stitching on around the edge of the stand
And here’s The Burrito! Hmmmm, must be time for lunch.
So far, I have found that the Islander Sewing DVDs/Tapes more helpful than purchasing the Classic Dress Shirt pattern and trying to learn how to construct a dress shirt from the written instructions. The vids are hefty in price but the very best way to learn these techniques. I splurged at a sewing expo and bought the package of all 7 at the show’s special pricing when they were only sold as tapes. I think they necessary to learning how to sew well.