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The Shirt

Sorry for the silence! I’ve taken some time off from sewing to celebrate our 16th wedding anniversary but finally, the shirt is finished. Adding to the time to finish I applied and then removed the original collar. The shaped collar fit wonderfully around the shoulders but since I had cut down the height of the collar stand the points of the collar spread were too close. I replaced it with this:

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I recut the collar to curve the front edge away from the tie but next time I’ll add back a bit of curve over the clavicle. Husband is very pleased with a shirt that fits.

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A good stiff starch helps this soft fabric behave as shirting.

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I omitted the extra button on the sleeve placket because a few guys have complained about that second button: it rubs on desk edges and must be dealt with in order to roll up the sleeves.

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The length of the sleeve was made so that the cut edge hit right above the wrist bone and then a 2.5″ cuff was added. This shirt is for sales conferences and must allow for setting up and breaking down of the display, packing and carrying heavy boxes, so lots of extended arm movement.

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I cut the back yoke and it’s facing on a 30 degree angle from the stripes. That was fun! but increased problems in drafting for a differing right and left side because I got confused! As a result the neckline on the shirt body still needs some work…that’s for next time.

This photo is before starching the fabric which gives the fabric the extra body needed for a dress shirt.
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Yes, that is a Snoopy tie.

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About Mary Beth

I am fascinated by changing patterns and colored threads. I sew garments and am teaching myself to machine knit. Since selling the building that housed my workrooms, The Stitchery, I'm searching for a place to set up the knitting machines again. There must be room here somewhere!

13 responses »

  1. It looks wonderful!

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  2. Absolutely immaculate, my respect Mary Beth. I call that craftsmanship!

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  3. Wow! That is one awesome shirt. You did one heckuva bang-up job! Thank you for detailing all these steps, from beginning to end.

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  4. Your eye for design, craftmanship and impeccable sewing made this shirt a Bespoke Shirt. Dave looks great.
    I’ll bet he will prefer custom made shirts from now on, so tracing the pattern on oaktag will be worth for all the new shirts in the future..

    Reply
  5. Fabulous, MB! When I grow up, I want to make shirts like that! 😉 (grin)

    Congratulations on a job WELL done!

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  6. MaryBeth- Absolutely impeccable is all I can say. The shirt is devine and it such a perfect fit for your husband. What a fantastic journey to watch unfold. Thank you for sharing.
    – Linda

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  7. MB, I am finally able to spend a little time reading this. What a wonderful tutorial, with fantastic results! And I love the Snoopy tie with the shirt. It adds the perfect touch.

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  8. Mine keeps asking me when I’m going to do one for him. Can I come for a visit?

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  9. Exceptionally well tailored shirt.Thank you very much for the very detailed tutorial.Loads of notes have been made and sections of the shirtmaking book flagged.

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  10. MaryBeth, great job. So very helpful. It has been an interesting read.

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  11. Happy Anniversary! I have had so much fun watching the progress on this shirt, so thanks for the inspiration. I am still in no sew mode, but today is my last day to “volunteer” my services on the weekend – spaghetti dinner fundraiser – so after that, I”ll be down to no excuses, right? I’m thinking the TS Basic Dress – about my speed lol. Have a lovely day.

    Reply
  12. I really like the shirt. I have made my husband several custom shirts too 🙂 I noticed your husband has the full-tummy — do you use any alterations on the pattern for that? My husband has gotten a full tummy now too as the years have progressed, I wondered if a full-tummy alteration like I’ve done on women’s patterns should be done for his shits? Any feedback on that thought?

    Reply
    • Hi Laura M, thank you for your kind words. I have added width to the tummy area by 1) increasing the width at the side seams and also have used the 2) slash and spread method where the front pattern is cut at approximately the middle of the piece from the hem up to where the body starts to need the extra width and then spread the pattern piece. Adjust the length of the side seams to match the back piece

      Reply

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