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Fat Placket-Still Searching for the Perfect Interfacing

Man’s dress shirt, again.

I am ripping out the plackets on this new shirt. The interfacing I used was the only available in the stash and I thought I could live with the results. But noooo!

I used a separate placket piece for both the left and right sides and fully interfaced each of the placket pieces in the hopes that the result would be a crisp yet appropriate placket for this new shirt. I usually just interface the public side of any piece and only to the fold or stitching line but I decided to “take a chance” and follow the instructions in the Island Pattern instructions for it’s Man’s Dress Shirts. This was not a good time to follow instructions.

I am using Palmer/Pletsch Perfect Fuse Light, that’s all that’s left in the stash. It is a great product for most women’s clothing. I would have rather used the Perfect Fuse Sheer as it is a bit more crisp but that is gone and mail order from the PP would take a week. Perhaps this men’s shirt placket would have been best interfaced only to the fold as was done on the pocket. Maybe I’ll try that next.

The pocket header is interfaced just in the folded area with only one layer of the same product applied to the inside of the fold and it produced a nice, crisp finish.

My last shirt was just one layer of woven non-fusible Veri-Shape from and I like it but it just didn’t support the soft fabric quite enough and the shirt needs a heavy starch to have the sharpness I am looking for. Shirt Fall 2006 Number 1

But I over did it when I doubled the thickness of the interfacing on the placket. The result was spongy, too thick and silly looking when used with my light weight gingham.

It looked like the poor shirt had somehow been attacked and overwhelmed by a fat placket that was going to keep the gingham from looking sweet, light and summery forever! Not the result I had in mind and my sympathies reached out to the poor shirt-to-be.

I had even done a fairly neat pre-finish at the hem…

but it’s all got to go! I’d rather have a professional looking product.


About Mary Beth

I am fascinated by changing patterns and colored threads. I sew garments and am teaching myself to machine knit. Since selling the building that housed my workrooms, The Stitchery, I'm searching for a place to set up the knitting machines again. There must be room here somewhere!

5 responses »

  1. I do think you will have better results with half placket fusible, whatever your chosen type. The side with the fusible is the the upper layer, I think, to minimize grin thru and seams showing. You can label your fusible pattern ‘glue side up’ (or down), as appropriate for the patternpiece it’s used for.

  2. Thanks Georgene, that’s what I usually do and I had forgotten to include that fact in this blog. I edited it to reveal what had cause my deviation on this occasion.

  3. I usually don’t cut a separate front band, because I’m lazy. I cut the front extension wide enough to fold under twice, giving me three layers, including a middle one which acts as self-interfacing. Hence avoiding the whole problem of choosing the appropriate interfacing. I did use single layer of lightweight interfacing (Sewer’s Dream) on a very fine, lightweight silk/cotton shirt for my son’s grad. Despite the light fabric, we wanted a formal look. The Sewer’s Dream added just a bit of body, and helped support the buttonholes. I didn’t interface the button side.

    I think a front band usually looks better too soft rather than too stiff. Your hem edge looks very neat. How did you do it?

  4. I tend to agree with tessa. If doing a mock banded front, like you’re doing, here, I recommend cutting an additional width onto the front to act as interfacing.

    Though, I have also used lightweight fusible tricot on the public side (instead of the 3rd layer), too. Some RTW shirts I’ve disassebled use the same cuff-weight woven interfacing you mention. My clients who send their shirts out tend to prefer the tricot interfacing. Since I’m fussy and do my own shirts, I tend to use the 3rd layer of self fabric. I guess that would be my guiding principal… how the shirt will be laundered.

    For french placket fronts (folded toward the inside, twice, and not topstitched), I don’t interface. My “fine” shirts (i.e. no pockets) are made this way. The more sporty, casual, or “versatile” shirts have the mock-banded front.

  5. Just for future reader’s reference both of these plackets are sewn on, not extensions added to the width of the shirt body.


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