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Muslin Vogue 8146

I love the back of this topper. It has a deep inverted pleat and when finished will have a Thai silk/cotton bow out of a gold/brown.  I have not hemmed anything and the sleeve hem on the left is just tucked up where the hem would be.  I shortened the sleves to the “petite” marking.


 However this topper does not have bust darts and looks best on a smaller bust.  Without darts the front swing at the side seams needs to contain the natural tendancy to stick out in front.  And it is short!  I may add to the length just to “save” this muslin.  It is not a good look for a short round person.

I cut a size 12 with a 1.5″ FBA and lengthening .5″.  I normally cut a 16 but it’s been so long since I’ve worn a raglan sleeve I tissue fit and it seemed OK.  Now that the topper is made up I feel it’s too tight all over, perhaps due to the thickness of the fabric.  I can let the 5/8″ seams out and add a blatant extension to the hem.


OK, there you have the muslin of the pattern.  I’m not sure this is the proper style for the silk tweed fabric, though.


About Mary Beth

I am fascinated by changing patterns and colored threads. I sew garments and am teaching myself to machine knit. Since selling the building that housed my workrooms, The Stitchery, I'm searching for a place to set up the knitting machines again. There must be room here somewhere!

7 responses »

  1. I kind of like the back view, but I agree with the front needing some shaping. The flat back can handle the deep pleat but I think the front needs some extra length and maybe some shaping to it to prevent the tent effect. Is the silk a lighter hand than the wool?

  2. The back view is really beautiful and flattering, I love the shaping in the back. You are right however that the front needs help but that may be accomplished with a little extra shaping and a little extra length. Length might help the jacket overall, the trick will be to get just the right amount, it doesn’t really need much, and to preserve that nice swoop in the back.

  3. The back is so nice. It will be interesting to see what becomes of this muslin.

  4. Pingback: Critique by Els/Muslin by Mary Beth « The Sewing Divas

  5. What good luck! I logged on to your blog for the first time and there was the jacket I am, literally, in the middle of making! I am making my V 8146 out of a medium weight gray wool. I made some alterations without making a muslin (bad girl) but after reading your comments I think I will be ok. I added 2 inches to the length as I am very long waisted and I lengthened and added width to the sleeves as I am not a big fan of 3/4 length sleeves. I fell in love with the back inverted pleat and the swing of the fall. The pattern is unlined but I will bag a lining out of a mod print of gray, brown, pink and camel. I will post a photo when I finish my handiwork – now the pressure is on!!! Thanks again!

  6. Ohhh, Laura, where can we go to see your version? Be sure to check out Els’ critique of this muslin at

  7. Pingback: I’ll Be Away for a week… « The Stitchery

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