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Denim Work Shirts – Vogue Mens 8096

Production sewing, yes, but this time for personal use:

Here’s the pattern I used Vogue men’s pattern 8096. Great pattern (but read on for a warning), well drafted, decent collar shape.

You can cut down the seam allowances where 5/8″ is not needed (collar and stand, pockets top and bottom of yoke and the pieces it joins to) or you’ll be cutting down after you’ve sewn them.

I didn’t bother with fine details like cutting a smaller under collar, the pattern doesn’t have one either. These shirts are meant for working, not standing around looking pretty. But, thanks to good denim, they turned out pretty anyway.

WSS

I made the short sleeved version in a heavy weight (for a shirt that is) denim and did mock flat felling: stitched the seam on the sewing machine, serged together the edges of the seam allowance to 3/8″, turned and topstitched at 1/4″. The armscye seam is turned toward the body of the shirt and the side seams are turned toward the back of the shirt. Nothing fancy.

Taking a cue from a RTW shirt I adjusted the width of my automatic buttonhole stitch to a more narrow setting and used a finer thread than I used in the stitching on the band. I didn’t want too much off-white in the shirt’s details, just enough to play nice with the off-white buttons that were available in the stash.

WS3

One thing: the pattern’s pocket placement seemed all wrong. It was 10″ down from the forward edge of the yoke, which of course is dropped from the shoulder by 1.25″ or so and 5 or 6 inches away from the center front. I didn’t measure it. But it was almost under the arm. I moved it to 8″ below the point where the yoke meets the collar stand and 4″ from the far edge of the front band. It just looked right in that position.

Why did I do this bit of production sewing? Overlooked ink pens in the laundry. Need I say more? Thanks goodness only the light blue work shirts got hit hard.

So (darn) there goes that denim I had stashed for the Hot Patterns Denim Diva Camden Coat. Oh, the sacrifices that must be made in times of great need and suffering…. Hope I can find some more of this denim, it was a pleasure to sew up and had great body.

It’s good to have a stash!!!

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About Mary Beth

I am fascinated by changing patterns and colored threads. I sew garments and am teaching myself to machine knit. Since selling the building that housed my workrooms, The Stitchery, I'm searching for a place to set up the knitting machines again. There must be room here somewhere!

12 responses »

  1. Well you’re a good women for sewing those fine shirts – and sacrificing your stash as well! They turned out really nicely – just the right amount of white against the blue.

    Reply
  2. What a heart, to give up your coat for the workshirts! My son left a crayon in a pocket last week in his load of school clothes – we had green on all the dress shirts, khaki pants, everything. It mostly washed out. What remains on his clothes is a reminder to clean out his pockets!

    Reply
  3. My husband leaves, among other things, permanent ink markers in his pockets. Scares me to death when I see them coming out of the washer. Strangely enough, they haven’t leaked into the wash. Perplexes me.

    Reply
  4. I guess HE is going to have to look far and wide to replenish the stash, now, isn’t he? Thanks for the warning about the pocket. Mine doesn’t like pockets, so it isn’t a big issue for us, but you never know when he’ll change his mind!

    Reply
  5. Wow Mary Beth, I truly admire your marathon effort, they look so great. Whilst shirtmaking can be very gratifying, I find it takes the wind out of you after the second one or so, even when spaced days apart….personal experience of course.

    Why is good quality denim so hard to find?
    Ressy sold some last time and the quality is fabulous, no more, it was fantastic. I hope she runs another co-op soon, because the crxxxp I get here…uhhhmm.

    Last weekend I picked up Burda’s #7767 with the intention of sewing some shirts for DS#1 who just got a parttime/nights job as a hotel receptionist. I know he will frown on my homemades but he will have no choice….lol.

    Did I mention that your draped pants are awesome! Did you do the pinning and fitting all by yourself? Just shows that there are few limits to what can be done.
    PEACE
    Gemma

    Reply
  6. Ink pens, magic markers, crayons and add in lipsticks, etc. A pox on the all! In this case the barrel of the ink cartridge came loose and broke so everything in the load was blotched – not pretty.

    Production sewing: I cut all the pieces at once, and do all the construction in steps: all the prep at the same time, sew all the front bands, pockets, etc. I sometimes vary the procedure to complete more steps ahead of the others if I am working out a detail of construction or if I get incredibly bored.

    Doing 4 of something at once was not bad, 10 to 20 of a project at once can be torture. I’m glad I don’t work in a factory where I don’t have control over what I work on and in what order. My way is less efficient but I can better stand the work with variations in the procedures.

    Reply
  7. Mary Beth .- good production. ! I need you!. A big hug from Barcelona. Paco

    Reply
  8. Can I just say that I’m so happy that you’re sewing again! I have missed your wonderful garments and these last few posts have been a treat!

    Reply
  9. Nice article but i am looking for pocket place in Bottoms rather than Tops
    have any related article

    Reply
  10. hiya these look great! Just wondering how long each shirt took to make? Including cutting etc…..

    http://www.leluca.com.au

    Reply
  11. Pingback: New Clothes for Her and Him « The Stitchery

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