Posted by Mary Beth at The Stitchery
The best laid plans…bite the dust. I have had pneumonia for the past number of days and have slipped into disappear mode again, like Alice down the rabbit hole. Antibiotics are slowly pulling me back to ground level. Looks like the new Preschool Director arrived just in time as I have been a-bed for the past week.
A Flanged Shoulder perked up my ears: I rarely see one.
Diesel wrap front denim jacket in cotton/elastine for $167.
I don’t like the jacket. I do find the use of a shoulder flange interesting: it allows for more room when the arms are stretched forward (as seen in the 1940’s hunting jackets and in biker’s jackets) while allowing for a closer fit through the back. A shoulder flange is a hidden pleat.
Most importantly to a figure with slooped and/or narrow shoulders it squares and extends the top line of the silhouette.
The study in this design element began in 2006 at the old Sewing Divas Blogspot and at Pattern Review where I tried to save a completely wrong-for-me dropped shoulder, square block (also called a menswear block) style smock
While my “save” on a lowly smock worked by taking a tuck in the shoulder making a funky replication of the flanged shoulder,
the flange should, in my view, be relatively unseen from the front and only seen from the back when the arms are extended. Like this lovely
Pendleton 49er Jacket Click on the link to see if it is still offered in your size.
I’ve searched high and low this day for more garments with this detail and alas, even the menswear sites were completely void of it.
A discussion of the 49er style jacket and Robyn’s (Blue Mooney) fabulous rendition of it can be found here at Stitcher’s Guild.
Susan Lazear’s company Cochenille offers a CD (Easy 7 Series : Jackets BKCD-0114 $24.00) that includes the shoulder flange as one of the basic shapes
that can be created for knitting or sewing using the Garment Designer software. I don’t own Garment Designer, but I really and truly should. I know I’d like it and use it, esp with the knitting machines.
Here’s a diagram of the back shoulder pleat with an underarm gusset from a pixy I found a few years ago. I can no longer find it’s original source.
It is a shirt from a menswear company and the design just fascinates me. I knew I should have overruled HusPartner at the time and bought it for him right then.
Some of the best laid plans…