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Vogue 1034 Sandra Betzina’s New Jean Pattern

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Posted by Mary Beth at The Stitchery

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bkbt

I reviewed this pants pattern at Pattern Review if you would like to read some of the more pattern and construction oriented details and see different photos of details. Click here for the Review.

One of the (many) cool things about this pattern is the pocket extensions that run to the front zipper, providing a bit of tummy control. I usually draft my pockets this way so this was just a little less work for me.

infly

I like this pattern much more than I thought I would. I slavishly made all the timeconsuming details even though originally I thought, “Too fiddly! How can those pockets (front and back) be flattering??”

Presented with a challenge to my design sense and always willing to learn something new I took the plunge and am very pleased. Here’s the zippered back pockets

zip

Here’s a close up of the front with the fancy pockets and rivet detail

blt

Fun, no?

Last year I bought a bolt of high quality white cotton canvas from Michael’s Fabrics, the kind that is used in priestly vestments. I plan a few white suits with this stuff. For these pants I lined with thin cotton batiste to avoid show-through and the multi-pockets are lined with satin cotton batiste for silky smooth hand insertion (love that!!!). The linings were purchased a number of years ago at Fabric Mart in Portland, Oregon.

I developed a trick last winter, that I thought was “cheating” until I read Kenneth King’s article in Threads this January: use your lining as the fitting garment. Oh Boy! I’m legit!!! I did that in this case as well.

However one can never be sure of the fit of pants until that crotch seam is sewn, trimmed and cracked so pants always offer moments of trepidation or as I, who loves snakes, see it: cheap thrills!!!

What will they ultimately fit like???

Almost as good as roller-coaster for the speedy highs and lows

I’m easily amused, I know. Cheap date, too, sometimes.

Alterations were made based on the lining fit session.

These are tight fitting pants, best used on days when there won’t be lots of sitting: these are my “struttin'” pants. Big Grin!

Yes, well, as far as I “Strut” in this small town. But hey, I am at least ready to Strut should the occasion arise. Speaking of strutting, the issue of hem length raised it’s head and I opted for the tailor’s traditional hem treatment

hem

The back hemline dips down to the where the shoe meets the heel and should allow low heels and flats as well as high heels. The front hemline breaks over the instep.

The website I found to buy the rivets has had me jazzed for the past two weeks: seems there’s a Cajun who makes hunting accoutrements and was forced to buy a humongeous qualtity of rivets for one of his projects. Now he sells small batches to the crafting/sewing public here at CastBullet.com

These guys are very interesting. Need to cool your tent and stay connected to the internet this summer? Here’s how: High Tech Primitive Camping

And Mr. Junior Doughty, a cultural anthropologist, is also into wonderful Delta Blues music. Sigh!!! (Caution: this site has X-rated material, nice, real, and spicy!) I spent hours on that website. Maybe that’s why these pants took a 10 days to sew.

Anyway, back to sewing: I’m totally curious about how this cut would look in all kinds of fabrics and without zippered back pockets, no rivets or topstitching, no pockets, no belt carriers, etc etc etc. This pattern is going in the TNT folder right now.

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About Mary Beth

I am fascinated by changing patterns and colored threads. I sew garments and am teaching myself to machine knit. Since selling the building that housed my workrooms, The Stitchery, I'm searching for a place to set up the knitting machines again. There must be room here somewhere!

35 responses »

  1. Smashing jeans with a superb fit. This pattern will be a tnt one for so many jeans or slim fitted pants in your future life. Enjoy your new “struttin” jeans.

    Reply
  2. They look stunning on you and the fit is absolutely superb!

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  3. Sassy! I like them!

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  4. Nice details! They look fab on.

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  5. You did a beautiful job!

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  6. LOL!!! Those are some great struttin’ jeans! 😀 I picked up this pattern, too..wonder when I’ll get to it?

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  7. Wow Mary Beth, that’s a really a superb pair of jeans. All the work on the details certainly paid off. Great fit too. Have fun wearing it. You look very good in your outfit.

    Reply
  8. Wow! The jeans are great! Aren’t you glad you took the time for those details? Fantastic!

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  9. Wow, MB, awesome jeans! The color is so summery, the fit superb, and I really like the rivet detail and all those pockets. Too cool!

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  10. You’re such a sweetie to say such nice things about me. I like the pants!!!! What’s in them isn’t bad either!!

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  11. Love, love, love your jeans. Great fit and outstanding detail.

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  12. Wow! The fit on thses jeans is super. I love the zippered back pockets.

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  13. OMG!!! You deserve to strut. These jeans are
    totally fabulous and fit you amazingly.

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  14. MaryBeth, those look fantastic! Love your shoes too.

    Reply
  15. Those jeans are hot! Or rather, I should say that you look hot in those jeans! 🙂 Gorgeous work! Maybe one day I’ll get brave enough to try some for myself.

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  16. Wow, great looking jeans, all the details make then over the top great.

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  17. Oh, wow, you’re one hot lady! The time in doing all the ticky-tacky details really paid off – just beautiful.

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  18. Sherril Miller

    MB, I love that pattern, now. I didn’t used to. You’re strutting yourself quite nicely in those, if I may say. Thanks for the info about the rivets. I’ve done some searches with no success. I’ll wait until I have time and can watch without the child around.

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  19. Oh no! I’ve misled you about the Delta Blues site: you have to dig to get to the x-rated stuff and then you’re warned beforehand! So sorry!

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  20. Mary Beth .- trousers are fantastic. We stayed well the double stitching above the white. Enjoy these pants that you look so well. Best wishes, Paco

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  21. These look really good, Mary Beth. I especially like the zippered back pockets. I haven’t seen anything quite like them on jeans before. But what really makes these look good is the way they fit you.

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  22. MaryBeth, These jeans are really very nice. Yes, they ‘stank’ as the kids say. Love the balance of the design details, definitely places these jeans in the designer category.
    Your impeccible construction is the icing on the jeans.
    So, now I have to go order that pattern.

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  23. What an amazing pair of Jeans! Wow! Wow! Wow!

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  24. These are awesome. So often jeans made at home look, well, made at home. But these are beautiful. And the fit! Superb

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  25. What a fabulous pair of pants!! They look absolutely perfect on you!!

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  26. Hi Mary,

    You are very elegant in this jeans! I love white jeans (Now, I have a white jeans dressed!)

    Beautiful finishings!

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  27. you are my hero! These pants look fantastic on you

    Reply
  28. Pingback: Straight Legged Pants: Vogue 1034 SB’s Jeans Again « The Stitchery

  29. Super jeans with a fantastic fit, MaryBeth! I am making some from SB’s earlier pattern and just ordered my rivets from Mr. Doughty. Thanks for the lead. I am interested in your inseam treatment. Did you trim and clip the seam before you topstitched? Also, your means of taking in fabric below the seat – where does the overlap line intersect the inseam?

    Reply
  30. Dear Martha: You asked, “Did you trim and clip the seam before you topstitched?”

    I didn’t topstitch the inseam. I did topstitch the crotch curve, though, after it was trimmed.

    “Also, your means of taking in fabric below the seat – where does the overlap line intersect the inseam?”

    Verbatim from the instructions: If you have a very flat seat, cut the back apart from crotch to hem and reduce the amount on the back innerleg by 1/2″. Overlap the back sections 1/2″, tapering to zero at the bottom”

    Picture here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/77314006@N00/2605405052/

    Reply
  31. Thank you so much, MaryBeth. I can’t believe I wrote ‘inseam’ when I meant ‘crotch seam’. Well, I can believe it, but it was an error. I am understanding that you trimmed the crotch curve before topstitching but did not clip it.

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  32. No, I clipped the crotch seam too. Sorry for the incomplete communication. I toyed with the idea of leaving it just trimmed to .25″ but I wasn’t comfortable with not having thoroughly cracked that seam. I recommend that if you’re shy of doing the topstitching over a clipped seam, do a basting stitch to secure all the little segments in place before you topstitch (I may well have done that but I don’t remember it now!)

    Good luck with your project!

    Reply
  33. Sew Paassionista

    Wow! What a great pant! You are an amazing seamstress! I love Sandra Betzina. I attended one of her fitting workshops and had a chance to get her other jeans pattern fitted on me by SB herself. My clothes fit me so much better since that workshop.

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  34. Hello Mary Beth,
    I just found your website after working on this same pattern. Would you mind if I post the link to this topic in my blog. The idea is I like the fit of your pants better than mine. I’ve always worn my jeans cupping the bottom, and tighter through the thighs but I think it would be better to have the fit like yours that’s just a little less invasive :)… especially since my behind has flattened over the years and I really don’t need to draw attention to it. I also like the way the creases look, and I do not have the ease for them in my version, to do the same.

    Reply

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