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Stitch And Flip Pt 2 Wherein We Wonder Will She Ever Learn New Tricks?

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Posted July 10 by Mary Beth at The Stitchery

Last week I announced that I was going to take Shannon Gifford’s Stitch and Flip class at Pattern Review.

Making the announcement publicly and putting my money where my mouth has worked: I’ve actually made a muslin, even not taking the extra time to make it wearable, and toiled over the jacket and its organza lining. I’m using FashionSewingSupply’s Pro-Sheer Fusible so the fusible is not as easily seen through the organza. I don’t see the sheer on the website at the moment but it could be one of these white samples:

Here’s the pix of some of the HP Martini Jacket pieces so far. I am keeping the hem facings throughout the jacket since I do want to pipe the edges with a white poly satin. And Shannon, bless her heart, is willing to work with me rather than have me recut the linings even though the SNF (stitch n flip) techniques calls for the linings to be cut identically to the pattern pieces.

My friend says, “Adolfo!” but I’m not sure why he says that (his face was certainly a-glow, though) since I’m not using a knit nor heavily embellishing. Anyway, here’s Adolfo’s bio here at the CDFA site Adolfo Sardina if you’d like to combine a little fashion history with your sewing picture viewing.

Pocket piping test on the front side piece and the shape of the back pattern piece with facing. I’ve been advised to cut the organza lining the same as the back piece and leave the facings for later. OK. I’ll try to do that one right!

Piping color and thickness testing…maybe I should go for more embellishment after all! Looking kind of bare there even though there will be piping on the all the jacket edges and on the sleeve detail. maybe some selvedge fringe? or is that old news?

Hem facings throughout

I only interfaced the front facing piece and drafted the lining pattern, rotating the princess seam dart to the side seam of the organza lining. Again, this isn’t SNF technique but me, reverting to the traditional like a well trained monkey… 🙂

Not much that I’ve actually produced is particular to the SNF process.

And I did say I was going to try to learn something…. No points for me!

I do love this pattern though. However I learned the hard way during the muslin making (yes, I did do that right so I guess I’m a few points ahead) that the instructions in the pattern I got were wrong and the seams were not 3/8″ but 5/8″. Makes all the difference in the world when it comes to the shawl collar construction. Yes indeed-y! So there’s one less pattern out there with the wrong instructions.

BTW the shawl collar sewing is such a trip! I love it! Sit down to stitch and take a devil-may-care attitude and you’ve got the collar on and the under collar dart sewn in one pass. Slick!


About Mary Beth

I am fascinated by changing patterns and colored threads. I sew garments and am teaching myself to machine knit. Since selling the building that housed my workrooms, The Stitchery, I'm searching for a place to set up the knitting machines again. There must be room here somewhere!

5 responses »

  1. The wider side of the piping looks good to me, no additional embellishment needed. Then again, I have serious minimalistic tendencies so you may want to take my opinion with a big grain of salt.

    Not cool about the mistake in pattern instructions. This is actually why I like BWOF so much – they show you where to sew, not where to cut.

  2. The fabric is beautiful and your sewing progress is looking good. I like the piping on the pocket flap and please no fringe that was last year.

  3. MB, please no fringe. The piping is nice though. You’re right, it does need something to bring out the details.

  4. Mary Beth .- I like the edging …… everything that you do …. I like uhmmm. really. thanks for showing the interfacing. hugs, Paco

  5. Hi mary beth noticed you little not on the bottom of the boards have read of few of your tips how do you find the time. You know if i spent as much time at the sewing machine as i did looking up stuff i would have more done. But on the other hand if i did not look up stuff i would not know a lot.mmmmm


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