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Stitch and Flip HP Martini Jacket

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Oh-ho! Best thing I’ve got to say: take the Stitch and Flip class that Shannon Gifford teaches through

I feel quite liberated having thought through some new techniques and ideas and am really happy with the results. You know how overly-enthusiastic and boorish new converts are so – enough talk – here’s the pix.

Cotton/rayon boucle fabric


fully lined with a navy silk organza in the the Stitch and Flip technique. The seams are all top stitched. The extra stitching and the organza are the only support for the body of the fabric, making it cooler to wear in the summer.

The front facing piece is fully lined with Pro Fusible Sheer as are all the facings on the hems and back neck.


The sleeve heads are an extra thick fleece covered with a self fabric which is then hand sewn to the organza.


The hem facings are bound with organza and sewn on to the lining organza, catching just a few threads of the fashion fabric beneath.


I may cover small shoulder pads and add them using multiple snaps later but right now I’m enjoying the overall lightness of this semi-fitted jacket.


The weight and thickness of the cotton boucle made piping a bad idea but this HP Martini style really would be nicely served by piping: the collar and cuffs are so cute!


What I’ve shown you is just my way of making this jacket: the Stitch and Flip technique does not required the use of organza and edge bindings, this was just an added bonus of taking the class.

I’ve never used a cotton/rayon boucle before and was surprised at how “formal” this fabric looks made up. In the hand it feels almost as comfortable as an old flannel so my vision for the jacket is not how the garment turned out but it’s a good jacket for slacks, skirts and jeans, just as the Hot Patterns envelope says:

Sometimes you just need to be able to grab a jacket that takes your outfit from easy-going to sharp in double quick time.


About Mary Beth

I am fascinated by changing patterns and colored threads. I sew garments and am teaching myself to machine knit. Since selling the building that housed my workrooms, The Stitchery, I'm searching for a place to set up the knitting machines again. There must be room here somewhere!

17 responses »

  1. Wow Mary Beth, this turned out beautifully! I shall bookmark your site for quick reference, you do beautiful work. As to the class, let me second your comments. The technique is wonderful to learn and use (I hope to finish my jacket soon and get picks up on my blog) and Shannon is a terrific teacher. Now I have to go off and order the HP Martini jacket. Will you be submitting this to post on the HP web site? I had heard so many iffy things about the HP jacket patterns, especially sleeve issues, but this is clearly a winner. Regards, Elle

  2. Fantastic, Mary Beth! I’ve been hoping you were still working on this project, although I’ve enjoyed the horticultural tour as well. Where did you find the navy silk organza?

  3. Mary Beth .- nice jacket. The construction is very interesting and jacket in the “model” looks fantastic. hugs, Paco

  4. Very pretty jacket. The lining looks super nice too. I’ll put “stitch & flip” on my list of things to learn!

  5. Someday, I will take that class. Someday…. 😉 That jacket looks great; I love love love that fabric! I have a similar blue tweed jacket that goes with almost everything in my closet. I bet you wear that to death.

  6. The jacket is beautiful, inside and out!

  7. Beautiful jacket. Glad you enjoyed the class. Your result is fabulous.

  8. Wow – just gorgeous! You’ve done a terrific job and with all the extra details it will be a joy to wear.

  9. Your new jacket turned out beautiful and looks great on you. Did you washed the organza first and did it softened a bit?

  10. Beautiful, Mary Beth! Such a pretty jacket, and it’s just as neat on the inside as it is on the outside. I love it!

  11. mary beth, this jacket looks really good on you. thank you for commenting on the rayon cotton boucle – i have wondered about this fabric for myself.

  12. I think this looks fine the way it is – it doesn’t need piping or shoulder pads (but then, I’m not a big fan of shoulder pads). The buttons are a great choice. It just looks like a wonderful summer jacket. Congratulations!

  13. That’s GORGEOUS Mary Beth!! Lurve the organza lining.

  14. Great looking jacket! I took this class about two years ago. I truly enjoyed it and have used the technique several times. It is nice to have several options for lining jackets.

  15. This is simply stunning! I love all of the components of the jacket and all of the construction pics! Wowza!!!!

  16. Hi Mary, I’m back!

    Beautiful jacket! Great color and the butons are very cute!

    Kisses (beijinhos)


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