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Vogue 8507

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Posted by Mary Beth at The Stitchery and at sewing.PatternReview.com

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Pattern Description: MISSES’ DRESS: Straight, fitted, lined dress, mid-knee, has princess seams and back zipper [and back walking] slit. A: sleeveless. B: short, two-piece raglan sleeves with pleats.

I made view B.

Pattern Sizing: Combinations: AAX(4-6-8-10), D5(12-14-16-18-20)

Love that there is size 12 through 18 in one envelope! Thanks Vogue!!!

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes except for the shortened length. This is my wearable muslin of this pattern.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes, but I didn’t follow them because I interlined (sewed the fashion fabric and the lining fabric together as one piece) and added a self-drafted facing for the neckline. I interlined because I didn’t want the seam allowances of the fashion fabric to show through as a darker bit along each seamline.

The sleeves are not lined and the pattern has a facing piece for them. I finished the interior seam allowances with a 2 thread serger stitch.

The pattern is well drafted and has notches (I am always sooooo grateful for notches) in all the right places.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? Love the sleeves and they are quite easy to sew up. They are a neat little and quickly done, dazzling detail. Highly recommend!

Sleeve Pleats
sleeve

Fabric Used: A stretch cotton sateen from Michael’s Fabrics purchased a few years ago (recognize it?) interlined with a white stretch cotton shirting from Ressy’s coop, I believe.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: I cut a 12 through the neckline and shoulders, 14 for the armscye and sleeves and tapered out to an 18 through the waist and hips.

I fussed and fitted the interlining as a muslin, basting together and trying on until I had removed most of the extra width I had added by cutting out to the size 18 cutting lines. I’d say I ended up making a dress that follows the size 14 cutting lines except for my high hip area.

I think that the perfect princess sheath fitting is almost impossible without a fitting partner! I finally realized that the stretch factor in the lining and the cotton sateen were a bit different and that over fitting the lining would not be such a good idea.

I pegged the lower few inches of each of the 7 seam lines except for the center back. By pegging I mean that I tapered the seam line in toward the body by .25″ starting about 3 inches from the hemline.

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I also shortened the pattern by 3″. I think it’s a bit too short. Next time I’ll only take off 1.5″ from the length.

I was very curious to see that Vogue had classified this dress as good for an inverted triangle shape and an hourglass shape and didn’t include my pear shape.

Now I know why: the neckline is too wide for my size 12 shoulders. It stands away from the front of my neck. Interesting, I hadn’t really “seen” the classification system as a guide to the areas of the pattern that would tell you where the pattern would allow for different body widths. I had always thought the classification system was a way to see if the end result, the finished garment would look good on your body type. But this neckline is wider than most of the size 12 bodices I made up lately, at least it seems that way to me :-O

This extra width in the neckline is the most important change I’ll make when I make this dress up again.

I’m not entirely happy with the placement of the seam lines for my body: the front princess seams are wide, not falling across the bust apex.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I’ll sew this again in a wool for Fall/Winter but will continue to look for armscye princess sheath perfection in other patterns. This is not the Holy Grail for me right now.

Conclusion: This is a good pattern for someone with broader, squarer shoulders and narrower hips. The sleeves are a great detail, worth using on other projects . I mean, how many pleated slightly poofy raglan sleeves are out there right now?

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About Mary Beth

I am fascinated by changing patterns and colored threads. I sew garments and am teaching myself to machine knit. Since selling the building that housed my workrooms, The Stitchery, I'm searching for a place to set up the knitting machines again. There must be room here somewhere!

8 responses »

  1. Aw, what’s it like to be that cute AND that smart? I hadn’t even noticed Vogue’s inverted triangles! But, truthfully, with all the crazy 99cent pattern sales at Hancocks, I haven’t bought many Vogue patterns over the past year. I think you look great!

    Reply
  2. It is cute – and the sleeves are interesting. I can see what you mean about the neck being too wide – especially in the back views. I’d have the same problem and it wouldn’t pass the “Holy Grail” test for me either. That said, you still got a cute dress out of the deal and those red wedges look comfy, too.

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  3. I think it is a very cute dress and it is not too short on you. You have great legs, the color is perfect for you.

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  4. I think you made a very nice dress.
    I love the print and the lenghth looks right to me. The sleeves are a very stylish look. There are things with it that you may not like but from what I can see it fits you nicely and you look very good in it 🙂

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  5. Your dress turned out very nice Mary Beth, love it. Those sleeves are darling. A sheath dress should be in everyone’s wardrobe.

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  6. Really cute dress on you, despite the wide neckline. It looks much better from the front than the back. I never made that connection about the inverted triangle, other than sometimes wondering why a particular pattern was classified the way it was. Very astute.

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  7. Well, it IS a cute dress. And yep, I remember that fabric – had the swatches but never sprung for the fabric. It’s really pretty made up. I see what you’re saying about the neckline, but overall the silhouette is nice.
    Thanks for all the detail.

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  8. The dress looks great on you, and I really love the print on this fabric! I’d say this is a VERY wearable muslin!

    Reply

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