Burda Plus Fall/Winter 2008 #404, to go with Burda World Of Fashion Vest Jan 2009 #124
I finished the second version of the slim pants that were first shown here. If you want to see a larger pix of any of these photos click on the little enlargement icon in the lower right hand corner of the photo and Flikr will take you to a story page.
in the glen plaid woolen yardage from Fashionista Fabrics I love working with wool!!!
This is the same wool used to make up the Burda Vest earlier this month
Photo Plans Thwarted
I had planned to make multiple shots of different shirts, scarfs, shoes, etc with which the pants and vest may be combined but today it is raining off and on so my photo opportunities are limited and I can’t model all the possibilities! Oh darned (not)…so here’s some ideas I thought nice.
And of course there’s always the ubiquitous white shirt…
Here’s what I did get – our early spring buttercups have been blooming for the last two weeks. It’s going to snow tonight. These little flower friends have already survived a snow earlier this week. Spring/Winter/Spring/Winter. Confusing.
I cut these pants with a 3/4″ seam allowance on each leg but used the .5″ seam allowance on the body curve used in the brown stretch pair. Upon basting them together the legs were too wide so I ended up taking a 5/8″ seam depth , essentially adding only 1″ to each leg width.
I think for a really punked out look the legs should be pegged more but I hesitate to make them too skinny in this non-stretch fabric. In keeping with the punked out look I shortened the hemline by 1.5″. Adding a newsboy cap would have just created a “costume”. I’m not in favor of costumes for everyday wear.
The pants are interlined in both the front and the back with Hang Loose to lessen the static that silk and wool, rubbing together, can engender. To interline you cut the lining fabric the same size as the fashion fabric and sew them together as one piece of fabric, easy and absolutely necessary to keep this soft woolen from being “sat out” or ending up with baggy knees. I serged the two raw edges of the wool and Hang Loose together and used a thinner wool herringbone blend for the fly facing, the inner waistbands, the pockets and the pocket bags. I could rant on about the drying up of true tailoring fabrics and tools in the home sewing market but I won’t bore you. It only applies if you like to produce traditionally tailored garments and not too many people are doing that right now. I even called Vogue Fabrics Designer department and was told they used to carry pocketing but now they use Kona Cotton. Sigh….
I also cut the pocket bags deeper like a men’s tailored pocket than the pattern called for. I love a deeper pocket. It just feels better to me and in case you put something in the pockets it’s more likely the object will stay with you than if you use the more shallow pockets of most women’s patterns. I do favor menswear styles – wearing them makes me feel “spiffy”, like I’m dressed properly. I have no idea why I like it so much.
The fly and waist band instructions are easy to follow. The waistband sections are sewn together at the sides, applied to the fronts and backs and the last seam to be stitched is the back crotch seam so adjustments for a narrow back waist are easy to make. It is an application method that also makes it easy to alter for (ahem) weight loss.
This is a good pattern, the instructions I understood (hardly ever the case for me), and once tweaked, it sews up quickly, suitable for both stretch fabrics and woven when there’s a tad more width allowed in the seams. I think it’s a TNT for me. I may do it again with the more narrow legs just to see if I can.
But I have no idea what I’ll be sewing next. It’s Winter/Spring/Winter/Spring….
for a new door mat
What can I say? We’re a pair….