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Yellow Coat II – Couture Treatment Is Best

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Now that everything has hung and relaxed it’s time to get down to hand stitching. It’s not an option to use the machine which can distort the fashion fabric and throw the checks off. Hand work, the couture treatment, is inevitable for a good result.

boucle 6832cut

This pattern relies on the yoke to support the whole weight of the coat, including the sleeves, and a large part of the yoke will inevitably be off grain and on the bias. There’s plenty of opportunity for the yoke to stretch out and deform. Not good!

A solid base for the yoke can be built by cutting the underlining on grain and on the bias and then securing the two together: like this 🙂

Back Yoke:

Back Facings

Grain Lines Visible:


Quilted Together, Keeping Stitching out of the Seam Line


Fabric Tacked to the Interlining:


Adjustments in Placement of Checks: Necessary to follow the Fabric, Not the Cut Edges!!!


The Stitching Lines Must be Marked on the Interlining:


And Thread Traced


To Indicate the Stitching Line on the Fabric


Which Might Differ Due to Stretch in Cutting Process


The Longer Body Pieces Are Tacked, Stitching Lines Marked and Thread Traced


The Tacking Stitches Can Be Less Dense.


I’ve used black silk thread to make seeing and removing the tacking stitches much easier.

Back to Work with small town tornado sirens going off in the background. Ahhhhh, Spring!

Edited 1 hour later: We’re fine, no tornado, now we have sun. Wow!


About Mary Beth

I am fascinated by changing patterns and colored threads. I sew garments and am teaching myself to machine knit. Since selling the building that housed my workrooms, The Stitchery, I'm searching for a place to set up the knitting machines again. There must be room here somewhere!

8 responses »

  1. Wow! I am sure that the amount of work you are putting into the jacket construction will be reflected in the fit and hang of the jacket when it’s finished!

  2. This is going to be a fabulous coat. Interesting how you underlined the yoke with 1 layer on grain and 1 layer on bias. Thank you for sharing that. Sew on!

  3. Great way to tackle this loose woven fabric.

  4. Oh you are so talented! That coat is going to be exquisite! I just wanted to pop over and give you some love and some cyber hugs so here come some huge hugs over the water, hope you can feel ’em. Take care sweet friend and thanks for your continued support, I appreciate it so much. Love, Jen B xxx

  5. Hi Mary Beth .- Spring greetings from Barcelona. Thank you for your comment. Yes, I have sewn the edge of the neck in the same way …. The coat that you do, is also on my list. I love this model. I noticed that the rounded form of the yoke helps a lot to women, whatever the size. The silhouette becomes soft and very modern. Also, reminds me a lot of YSL jackets eastern style, I love.

    Hugs, Paco

  6. What a great tutorial. I didn’t know about sewing one bias and one on-grain interfacing togetherl

  7. Smart choices for dealing with the fabric and the characteristics that it has. I see you have yellow nails, too – what a fun match.

  8. I couldn’t agree more with the title: “Couture treatment is the best”. Your work is impeccable!


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