RSS Feed

Yellow Coat II – Couture Treatment Is Best

Posted on

Now that everything has hung and relaxed it’s time to get down to hand stitching. It’s not an option to use the machine which can distort the fashion fabric and throw the checks off. Hand work, the couture treatment, is inevitable for a good result.

boucle 6832cut

This pattern relies on the yoke to support the whole weight of the coat, including the sleeves, and a large part of the yoke will inevitably be off grain and on the bias. There’s plenty of opportunity for the yoke to stretch out and deform. Not good!

A solid base for the yoke can be built by cutting the underlining on grain and on the bias and then securing the two together: like this 🙂

Back Yoke:

Back Facings

Grain Lines Visible:

grain

Quilted Together, Keeping Stitching out of the Seam Line

quilted

Fabric Tacked to the Interlining:

blackjpg

Adjustments in Placement of Checks: Necessary to follow the Fabric, Not the Cut Edges!!!

adjust

The Stitching Lines Must be Marked on the Interlining:

SAMarking

And Thread Traced

SATacked

To Indicate the Stitching Line on the Fabric

Tacks

Which Might Differ Due to Stretch in Cutting Process

AdjustCheck

The Longer Body Pieces Are Tacked, Stitching Lines Marked and Thread Traced

Sleeve

The Tacking Stitches Can Be Less Dense.

body

I’ve used black silk thread to make seeing and removing the tacking stitches much easier.

Back to Work with small town tornado sirens going off in the background. Ahhhhh, Spring!

Edited 1 hour later: We’re fine, no tornado, now we have sun. Wow!

Advertisements

About Mary Beth

I am fascinated by changing patterns and colored threads. I sew garments and am teaching myself to machine knit. Since selling the building that housed my workrooms, The Stitchery, I'm searching for a place to set up the knitting machines again. There must be room here somewhere!

8 responses »

  1. Wow! I am sure that the amount of work you are putting into the jacket construction will be reflected in the fit and hang of the jacket when it’s finished!

    Reply
  2. This is going to be a fabulous coat. Interesting how you underlined the yoke with 1 layer on grain and 1 layer on bias. Thank you for sharing that. Sew on!

    Reply
  3. Great way to tackle this loose woven fabric.

    Reply
  4. Oh you are so talented! That coat is going to be exquisite! I just wanted to pop over and give you some love and some cyber hugs so here come some huge hugs over the water, hope you can feel ’em. Take care sweet friend and thanks for your continued support, I appreciate it so much. Love, Jen B xxx

    Reply
  5. Hi Mary Beth .- Spring greetings from Barcelona. Thank you for your comment. Yes, I have sewn the edge of the neck in the same way …. The coat that you do, is also on my list. I love this model. I noticed that the rounded form of the yoke helps a lot to women, whatever the size. The silhouette becomes soft and very modern. Also, reminds me a lot of YSL jackets eastern style, I love.

    Hugs, Paco

    Reply
  6. What a great tutorial. I didn’t know about sewing one bias and one on-grain interfacing togetherl

    Reply
  7. Smart choices for dealing with the fabric and the characteristics that it has. I see you have yellow nails, too – what a fun match.

    Reply
  8. I couldn’t agree more with the title: “Couture treatment is the best”. Your work is impeccable!

    Reply

So, What Do You Think?

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s

%d bloggers like this: