I’m so glad it’s done!!!
In the past I haven’t had the time to devote to one garment like I could with this one. I have extricated myself from many of my husband’s companies and now for the first time since I bought The Stitchery in 2005 I am not acting as an Administrator or Business Manager. I am a simple sewist, sewing as the orders come in or sewing for just me. I wish I had the energy to sew for the public but I’m not recovered enough from cancer yet.
Sorry for the grim look on my face! I am not an axe murderer and my best friend did not just pass away…I made a mistake of staying up all night stitching (explanation below) and haven’t recovered yet! I did lots of hand stitching on this coat to turn it into the garment I intended.
Els (of The Sewing Divas) suggested piping around the yoke and she was right, it adds just the perfect touch to define the yoke shape. I’m so glad I had the brilliant yellow silk twill from Nancy Erickson to make the buttons and piping.
I used a new-to-me button covering kit
and then became concerned that the buttons were not as deep a yellow as the piping so I backed the bottom button with white lining
but found that it didn’t make enough difference to warrant redoing the buttons all together. I got quite caught up in obsessing. I really didn’t know how much of a perfectionist I am until I did this coat and watched the days go by with tests and redos….hopefully I’m not dangerous……..:)
I used Paco’s instructions on how to make a bound (or welted) buttonhole and Summerset’s tutorial on added cording to the welt. However, the rat tail cording did not give the welt enough body so I had to insert two strands. It was a tight fit!
Sigh. Perfection can cause me to obsess beyond all reasonableness.
On the front lining piece I attempted to paint a fuchsia. It’s not easily visible but it does make the blotchy lining look better.
I really couldn’t get a good photo of the whole lining…
so I guess you’ll just have to trust me that the painting is there. Or take a look at the prior post about it
It’s not the same as the line drawing nor my coat. I narrowed the width of the front yokes by about .5″ but the neckline is not scooped out like in the picture nor are the sleeves drawn in so close on the shoulders.
The pattern instructions were very basic and simple. There was no instruction for padding out the sleeves yet it did call for .5″ shoulder pads. I found I didn’t need the shoulder pads and had to add stiff sleeveheads and when that didn’t provide enough body to keep the checked fabric from drooping down my arms, I added a 5″ wide organdy undercap to shore up the sleeve. It was a good thing that I interlined this whole coat with a stiff woven underlining.
Believe the line drawing, not the picture.
And do not attempt to rely on the pattern instructions to give you the kind of coat that will look well done after you are finished. For example they instruct you to machine bag the whole lining. I think the end result would be a very soft but shapeless garment.
Here’s what kept me up all night…I wanted a soft, fat, hem since this fabric can press into a very sharp crease. I cut 4″ wide bias stripes of heavy linen twill to pad out the hems at the sleeves and the bottom
and catch stitched the linen to the interlining. But for some dumb reason I guessed at rather than accurately measured the proper placement of the linen and stitched the whole thing in so that the coat would end up to be too short!
I had to take it all out and move it down and I wouldn’t give up on reaching my self-imposed sewing goal. Therefore as my Husband was getting up at 5 am to go to work he caught me stitching in front of the TV! Ohhhh, dumb and dumber! I am beyond the age where an all-nighter is easily recovered from.
I also found that the front yoke, with the thick boucle in the seams and the added piping collapsed against my chest and needed to be padded to present well. Here is the underside which shows the wrinkles
I found some 1/8″ thick quilting fleece to fill out the front yoke pieces and catch stitched them in to provide what a chest piece would provide in an tailored jacket but is lost on this yoked style
I have learned a tremendous amount in doing this coat and am so glad that I could finally take time with my sewing to use some of the techniques I have been studying for so long. I’m in shock that I’ve chosen to use such a bright color for this gigantic project but am quite happy with the result.
If you chose to sew up this pattern I hope you will post about it
Now I can clean up this totally destroyed sewing space! Ahhh, what’s next? a simple white shirt perhaps?