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Hot Patterns 1090 Uptown/Downtown Knit Dress

If you want a quick and comfy knit dress this just might work for you!

Here’s my finished dress. It was cut at size 14 although I probably ended up with a 12 because I had to rip and reapply the difficult ribbing so often.

This wool jersey knit fabric is from Michaels Fabrics. He probably has some still available.   It’s very soft and not scratchy so I didn’t have to line this simple dress. When I asked Husband if he liked the blue stripped version he said “You look French!” LOL

The ribbed rayon fabric has no lycra in it and it stretches out with no recovery.  It was in the stash from an early coop buy, Michael doesn’t have this stuff. He wouldn’t touch it!!!!!

What a pain it was!!!  I had to cut every stripe into about half of what the pattern pieces give you for the bands.  Test, test, test!

I ended up putting an elastic yarn in the neckband to keep it lying flat.

I don’t look too happy. I forced myself to do photos today in the cold and wind and it even started raining.  The following photo I took the day before yesterday when there were better conditions.   At least you can see the paisley in the nylon jersey bought long ago from Emma One Sock. This is my muslin cut at a size 16, which is according to my measurements.

This ribbing has more recovery but still wrinkled at the neckline.  That is the toughest thing about this simple pattern:  finding proper ribbing.  The paisley version will be OK for work and look much better in the Spring time!  Somehow it seems way too silly for our deepening Fall.

It will match the jacket I made last week

Here’s the neckline with the elastic thread in it. I just gave up on “perfect”. Good ribbing, and better yet, with lycra in it, would help so very much.

I like how this dress pattern feels on the body and I like the sleeves at the elbow length. I haven’t yet played with the infinity scarf or tie belts. I personally like these shifts the way they are.


About Mary Beth

I am fascinated by changing patterns and colored threads. I sew garments and am teaching myself to machine knit. Since selling the building that housed my workrooms, The Stitchery, I'm searching for a place to set up the knitting machines again. There must be room here somewhere!

20 responses »

  1. Love your dresses and the jacket. Especially the stripped one. According to Old Navy you and your stripes are right in style!

  2. These are really kewl versions of this pattern! I have to tell you that I loved this pattern at first sight and then didn’t purchase it because of the ribbing. Where do you find coordinating grown up ribbing these days!?!

  3. Both dresses look wonderful on you.
    The paisley one will look awesome with your jacket.

    Linda Macphee in Edmonton/Canada sells awesome ribbing.

  4. Mary Beth….I just LOVE this blue dress SO MUCH ! The color is fab on you..and I really like this new style. You DO look French 😉

    About the ribbing…here’s a little tip. For *wide* ribbed necklines, I fuse our “2-way/all-way” stretch interfacing, Pro-Sheer Elegance, to the ribbing before cutting the pieces (or strips) to stabilize them and give them some body without compromising the stretch…because that interfacing is so light and stretchy.

  5. That looks great on you! I hear you about giving up on perfect. It looks just fine, and you look great in it!

  6. Your knit dress looks fantastic on you, this pattern will become a staple.

  7. They’re both cute and the bonus is that they look very comfy, too. How often do you get fashion and comfort in the same garment?

  8. Linda Stutterheim

    Hi, what size is the elastic in the neck band? Did you sew a row of stitches, and how did you insert the elastic?

    Thanks, Linda

    • Hi Linda: The elastic I used is an elastic thread, purchased at the local Hancock’s a few years ago, so it has a tiny circumference and round since it can also be used in the bobbin.
      I put it in the fold before I sewed the neckband onto the top as I could see during pressing and shaping the neckband that it would be gathered at the neck edge, like the pink was gathered in the muslin (test) dress. I estimated the needed length by trial and error before I sewed the ends of the elastic together. Hope this helps!

      • Linda Stutterheim

        Ok,I got it,it’s also used for shearing. I see what you did. Trudy from hot Patterns sent me this link. I’m using a black double knit,it doesn’t want to play nicely, so I have enough I think to piece in a another one on the bias. THANKS!

        • Linda, since you’re using a doubleknit, you might want to cut the neck piece in two pieces, shaped to fit around the neckline and lie flat. Lay the front pattern down and make a pattern piece that follows the neck curve STITCHING LINE (3/8″ in from the bodice pieces) and ends at the shoulder seam. And do the same for the back pattern piece. Make them the width of the finished, folded band. Add 3/8″ seam allowances all around. Cut 2 of each so that you have facings to back the new shaped neckline. But, remember, these pieces sewn together must fit over your head so take a measurement of your head and make sure that the opening, measured on the stitching line of the neck opening, is not smaller than your head measurement. Doubleknit usually does not stretch that much so what you are doing with making new patterns is treating the fabric like a woven. And you can consider adding button and loops at one shoulder if you want to have the neckband edge be tighter than what can fit over your head comfortably.

          Would you like a tutorial on this method?

          • Linda Stutterheim

            Yes I would! You know I thought of that BUT, I didn’t have enough fabric!So then I did one on the bias and that didn’t work! So I just decided to do a french trim using a 3/8″ seam using the same bias neck self trim and just cut it down. Finished is 1/2″. It turned out beautiful BUT it’s not what I wanted. It’s a miracle that I had enough fabric for the belt! I’m finished with this one and starting another. The dress is just gorgeous and I made a black sweater knit infinity scarf with a touch of silver threads thru it. It’s hot! Go ahead and send me the tutorial. I’m just so happy that this dress is complete. I live in Munich Germany and I just bought this fabric in Budapest.I will have this very soon on Hot Patterns site. I will keep in mind using this shaped ribbing and facing on his next one!
            Thanks Mary Beth!

            • Linda Stutterheim

              By the way I will use Pro Sheer Elegance from Off the Cuff for the neckline ribbing. But I will fist try again on the original. Thanks!

            • Hi Linda, you sound like you have produced a beautiful garment. Congratulations! for pulling it together 🙂
              Double knit is considered a “stable knit”, and is usually treated more like a woven.

              A tutorial on how to cut a faced neck edge would be too big to email to you so I will try to get it up here at The Stitchery. I am sure, however, I won’t have much to show you that you don’t already know or could easily figure out. It’s just the simplest of pattern making.

              I hope you will consider either making some true ribbing with the knitting needles for your next dress or finding some ribbing that you can purchase.

            • Linda Stutterheim

              I don’t know how to knit! And ribbing is very hard to find here and trying to match blacks. I will be in San Francisco next month, so I’m going to Britex! I thought of buying some med-large rib that looks kinda knity that will go with many shades of blacks. So now I’m on to the next one. I do know how to make a shaped neckline, have some books on that.

            • Good luck, Sweetie! I look forward to seeing your new dress on the Hot Pattern’s gallery.

  9. Do you mind if I ask what size you wear in RTW? I have this pattern and hope to find time to make it within the next few days. I am trying to figure out the sizing, though. I don’t seem to fit nicely into their sizes.
    Thank you!
    Oh, your dresses look great!!

    • Hi Kathi, I generally cut a 14 in HP patterns after years of cutting and making up HP patterns. However, I think this pattern can definitely be cut at a smaller size, depending on your fabric and comfort level. In every pattern line I get as close as possible to my measurement size (flat pattern measure) and the adjust for fit. I do goof up, but then I live for adventure.

      I go by the HP sizing and measurements given on the envelope. I checked your blog and you seem to have a good grasp on fitting yourself well. It is best to make up a muslin to be sure how you’d like it to fit. But I cheat (hanging head and mumbling…)

      Flat Pattern Measuring is a really good tool: Start by knowing your measurements and then measure the pattern pieces (minus the seam allowances), at all the key points. It’s best to thread trace or mark the stitching line for that size and then cut larger.

      I haven’t shopped RTW in so long that I don’t honestly know my “size” with any surety. I have bought jeans and they are usually a size 14. The last dress I bought was a 6, obviously an error in sizing!!! A lot of help I am, I know…sorry!

      • Thank you for your response!! I have so little patience that muslins are a problem for me!! I hope to start the dress tonight. I will measure the pattern pieces and see where that leads me!


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