The following notes were made as I researched the creation of a lining for the Orange Plaid Coat. They are not intended to be exhaustive of the subject and will be best understood if you are in the midst of hand drafting a raglan coat lining. This is not a Tutorial.
I spent more time making and fitting the lining than I did making the coat. I had to piece in extra lining fabric at the top of the sleeve/neck facing area where raveling had depleted the 1/4″ seam allowance. Careful matching and basting of all the seams is how I discovered why and where the lining pulled. Lining must not pull in any area of the garment.
The lining is made with 1/2 to 1″ extra ease vertically from the vent up to the join with the back neck facing. Horizontally extra ease is added at the side seams as well. I added extra length to the front lining which I caught up into a dart, cross stitched at the underarm and at the front edge where the lining joins the front facing, the extra east allowed to open in the middle.
Cut lining using the fashion fabric pattern, making allowances for the desired depth of the back center pleat in the lining and 1/4″ seam allowances at the front and back facings. Cut at least 1/2″ extra length above the back center vent and at the side seams and width in the front and back.
Fitting the lining into the coat:
First fit and pin the shoulder pads to the fashion fabric. Machine stitch the sleeves seams together and insert them into the body of the lining.
In raglan sleeved styles the sleeves must be installed into the lining first, unlike set in sleeve style where the sleeves are inserted by hand stitching after the lining is fitted into the body of the garment.
Place the lining into the coat turned face down on a flat surface. Smooth the lining across the back neckline, folding out and basting the center back pleat and across the shoulders, matching the seam lines at the back facing and at the armscye.
Hand stitch the sleeve allowance to coat seam allowance at under arm seam. Leave space at the lower end, the sleeve hem, for stitching the lining to the fashion fabric by machine at sleeve hem as you would when “bagging a lining”
Anchor shoulder pads through both the fashion fabric and the lining by basting in the seam allowances of everything including the shoulder pads. Baste loosely to avoid compressing the pads but make sure they are held in place.
Straighten the grain of lining at shoulders across the back of the coat, pin or baste, adding ease in lining where possible
Pin or baste neck edges, in a downward direction throughout the back, across the shoulders and down the front
Smooth down mid seam and side seams, check hem level against coat hem, mark and machine stitch double folded hem into lining, making sure it is evenly 3/4″ shorter than the garment.
Hand stitch front facing to coat front with loose stitches
Leaving ease at vent beginning of vent, join to coat at vent edges by hand stitches
On the issue of whether to hand stitch the sleeves into the coat or to machine stitch, stretch in either methods has proved in this test to be the same: http://tuttofattoamano.blogspot.com/2010/01/mythbusters-shoulder-seam-elasticity.html