This was a fun little dress to sew up quickly.
Notice the folds that extend down over the waistline? This cut is all wrong for my body, which is why I didn’t buy this pattern when it came out. I am too apple shaped at the moment to have folds over my waist and tummy! But so many people of differing shapes were trying the pattern and having fun with it, I couldn’t resist any longer.
So I played around with the side seams until I had sufficiently corralled the wrinkles to fall only under my bust.
To control the excess fabric I relied on the stretch in the material and nipped in the torso a total of 6 inches by taking 1.5″ deep curves out of the side seams.
This drastic a curve in the side seams does produce wrinkles but with the busy print and the natural draping of the cut the wrinkles look as if they are part of the gathering of the dress.
The hand of the fabric also helps me produce this result. This is an old buttermilk from EOS that was very popular 6 years ago. I’m sure many of you all recognize the pattern! For those that don’t have prior experience with Buttermilk: it has a “thick” hand, is very slippery and falls in wide drapes.
I didn’t have quite enough of the fabric so I had to cut 2 of the upper back and seam down the middle rather than cut on the fold. No problem.
I can live with this solution. An empire waist line helps give an illusion of height to a short person (I’m 5’2.25″ tall). The side wrinkles are not even very easy to see. Only us dressmakers know that the wrinkles really should not be there and that the original style meant for folds to languish down the front of the body.
You won’t tell, will you? Doesn’t matter, I’ve already spilled the beans 🙂