Have you ever cut pants and found this wrinkle or something similar to be the result?
And when you take a step forward the wrinkle can become a fold!
Ack, how unsightly! It simply means that the front crotch curve is too shallow for your body.
My draft is quite a sharp curve so what went wrong?
Well, first I had added 1″ sa and the radius of the curve changed with the added width as you can see from my pin prick drafting wheel marks on the paper.
Secondly, the double knit wool fabric has no lycra in it. It has stretched during cutting and stitching into a shallow, gentle curve. I experienced quite a bit of stretching in using this fabric for pants.
And now I remember why I don’t use double knits with no Lycra for pants! It’s a little too late for that “rediscovery” so to save the project I need to make a correction without lowering the crotch any further. This wrinkle didn’t show up in my full length mirror and I didn’t know it was even there until the photograph was taken.
To correct it I stitched a basting stitch in the original L shape. In the picture below my original stitch line is right next to the overlocking (or “serging”).
The correction takes a 3/8th inch bit into the curve
The pants are still just basted and the new seam is not yet pressed but already it fits much better.
I’m glad to be back in the sewing room and finishing up with these gray pants. There are plenty more fabrics that need to be sewn.
C U Later!