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Wool Doubleknit Pants in the Making

Have you ever cut pants and found this wrinkle or something similar to be the result?

front crotch curve too shallow

And when you take a step forward the wrinkle can become a fold!

Wrinkle becomes a fold

Ack, how unsightly! It simply means that the front crotch curve is too shallow for your body.

front crotch curve

My draft is quite a sharp curve so what went wrong?

Well, first I had added 1″ sa and the radius of the curve changed with the added width as you can see from my pin prick drafting wheel marks on the paper.

Secondly, the double knit wool fabric has no lycra in it. It has stretched during cutting and stitching into a shallow, gentle curve. I experienced quite a bit of stretching in using this fabric for pants.

And now I remember why I don’t use double knits with no Lycra for pants! It’s a little too late for that “rediscovery” so to save the project I need to make a correction without lowering the crotch any further. This wrinkle didn’t show up in my full length mirror and I didn’t know it was even there until the photograph was taken.

To correct it I stitched a basting stitch in the original L shape. In the picture below my original stitch line is right next to the overlocking (or “serging”).


The correction takes a 3/8th inch bit into the curve


The pants are still just basted and the new seam is not yet pressed but already it fits much better.


after correction

I’m glad to be back in the sewing room and finishing up with these gray pants. There are plenty more fabrics that need to be sewn.

C U Later!


About Mary Beth

I am fascinated by changing patterns and colored threads. I sew garments and am teaching myself to machine knit. Since selling the building that housed my workrooms, The Stitchery, I'm searching for a place to set up the knitting machines again. There must be room here somewhere!

13 responses »

  1. Nice job, Mary Beth! I usually have that wad of fabric in the crotch, front and back. Pants are a PITA to fit. I have just finished my 4th pant muslin, and FINALLY–I have what I think is a good enough fitting pant. Shees!

  2. Nice recovery Mary Beth!

  3. I have to make the same change w/the front crotch curve most of the time.

  4. Nice explanation—thanks!

  5. This tip is so timely. I am working on my 4th muslin too. I haven’t sewn pants for ages and I know why now !!!

  6. Are you going to stabilize that seam somehow so that is does not sretch any more?

    • Great minds think alike, Lorna! I am pondering the best way to do that. I suspect that the overlocking has also contributed to the stretching out as well. So, one thought is to bind off the seams with only minimal thread. I’ll post what I’ve worked out when done.

  7. I will be trying this next time I make trousers, thanks for the very clear description.

  8. Thanks for the tip. Very useful!

  9. I am glad I found this post again. I rememner you making this pants. I will try your tip to fix my isseus.

    • In adjusting for this problem, Beatta, it is good to think of it as “too much fabric” in the crotch area. Good luck with your adjustments and may your grain lines always remain straight! (that’s new saying from The Stitchery LOL)


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