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Category Archives: Claire Shaeffer

Burda Faux Peplum Jacket – Construction Notes – Magazine 2006/08/128

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I am making up a tailored jacket from the August 2006 Burda Magazine. I found the Russian site Osinka.ru has the archives for 8/2006 here I am making pattern number 128

This is the jacket:

Jacket

I flat-pattern measured and cut a generous size 48 in this Plus Sized pattern. I’ve sewn up the shell and on me it looks exactly like how it looks on the model, with fullness above the waist and the hip skimming flat peplum.

It’s a boxy jacket with one button closing at the waist and rather broad, padded shoulders. Burda calls it a “Faux” peplum, maybe because the peplum does not have much ease. My body shape from the back side does not want or need much of a peplum so this jacket style is attractive to me.

Burda 2006/08 #128 Line Drawing

The Burda pattern has no interfacing nor lining instructions or pieces so I zipped along on my prior experience and research in jacket making, fusing in my favorite weft interfacing (Pro-Weft Supreme Medium Weight) on all pieces and adding Fashion Sewing Supply’s old fusible tailors canvas on top of that in the peplum, fronts, across the back shoulders, lapels and collar stand. I look forward to trying out the new 68″ wide version that is pre-steamed

Yes, the owner is a dear friend but I am endorsing her products because they are the best I’ve ever used. And, no, she is not paying me to say sing these high praises 🙂

I am also taping the edges and roll line with straight fusible tape but haven’t finished that part as of this writing (you’ll see why if you read all the way down this post).

Back Shoulder Stay and Tape

Armscye canvas applied

Armscyle canvas

I sewed up the under collar dart in the front facing. In my classic sample the dart is on the front, not in the front facing, like it is in the Burda pattern:

Dart sewn in under collar
Classically Stitched Dart

Should that have been my first clue? Maybe! But I skimmed along, hoping that one day I would be through with all the fusing, my least favorite part of jacket making.

Dart Sewn

I took apart and used the hand stitched sample jacket I made in 2009 when attending Claire Shaeffer’s Couture Tailoring workshop as a reminder of how things should be done.

Hand Stitched front interior
Hand Stitched Front

Hand padded lapel
Hand Stitched Lapel

Roll line is drawn up one half inch for my DD sized front. This stay is also called a “Bridle”

Roll Line Drawn up Half inch

I moved most of the fullness of the roll line to the bust area of the front facing and the fusing went well. Yes, all that fullness eased in just beautifully!

Roll Line

and put in a perfect roll for the lapel!

Wrong Way Roll!

What? Wait!!! It’s rolling the Wrong Way! So I have to soften the fusing and roll it the other way. Eeesch. Fortunately I am using a premium product and rectification is possible so I steamed and pressed over my store bought roll. I still can’t find my ham. Moving from an 1100 square foot house into a room that’s 10 x12 foot is really tricky! Anyway here’s the two front facings meeting their rectification:

Rectification

and This is the collar detail:

Collar

Do you see that there is no “Gorge Line?” The gorge line is where the collar and lapel meet and are sewn into one unit.

42 (Enlarged)_e

But this detail is missing: the collar is not sewn to the lapel but lies separately. Do you see it???

Yup. That’s a detail I really liked for my plain woven stretch wool fabric and late last night I finally turned to the Burda instructions and found that that collar is sewn into the dart.

Ah ha! Ok, back to the seam ripper. I hope I’ll have a completed jacket to show you in the near future, the good Lord willin’ and the creek don’t rise.

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Couture Tailoring with Claire Shaeffer

Claire helping out the Vionnet Draping class by modeling.

100_0424

In a comment on my last post Joyce in NC asked that I tell more about the class I took with Claire Shaeffer. Ah, so much to tell! But I can’t improve on the info already disseminated by Alania in her sewing class review at PatternReview.com. She’s nailed it already.

I took the class because my friend Georgene read Alania’s class review at PatternReview and contacted me to go and share a room with her to keep costs down. So last August I jumped in.

Then, it turned out that same writer, Alania, gave a presentation of the Chanel class at our local ASG meeting. Alania’s thorough presentation lasted more than an hour. Her class had obviously been quite intense, too. I can not improve on the info she’s shared so I suggest everyone read Alania’s review, including all the comments.

A class with Claire is like: couture sewing boot camp! You work, Baby, you work. And try to absorb the tons of information Claire presents. Impossible to take it all in, I’d say, at least for me it was. Claire has thoroughly studied the subjects she teaches.

It turns out that Claire is my first real classroom instructor so I can’t compare her to anyone else. I absolutely adore her. Could I be prejudiced because she is the first person I could hand a sewing dilemma and listen to her analysis besides my mother? Yes. It’s quite possible that my judgment is not to be trusted. I think the world of Claire Shaeffer.

So I’ve answered the best I can. Here’s the published description of the Couture Tailoring class:

Participants will complete one half of a full-scale jacket while learning to cut and assemble the jacket. Techniques include canvas placement, padding and shaping the undercollar and lapel, taping the edges, shaping the facing, finishing a sleeve vent, assembling the sleeve with lining, and setting the sleeve and shoulder pads. You will learn to make jetted (double welt) and patch pockets as well as how to apply the facing to the lapel and the collar to the jacket.

I don’t know when it will be scheduled again. It is almost too much info for a 5 day class.

Her next scheduled classes are

Couture MasterClass—June 2-9, 2009

Chanel and That Suit—January, 2010

You can contact Claire at sewfari@earthlink.net.

I am so glad I was able to meet her and sew under her eye!

If you can’t take classes with her be sure to invest in her books. She one of those incredible sewing resources and my best advise is to take full advantage of what she has to offer anyway you can.

hugs all
Mary Beth

Finding Family, Friends and Teachers in Palm Springs

Whew. It’s snowing here today. I’ve been gone for 3 weeks and now I am home, slowly recovering from a complete change in my environment, my solitary personal style and occupations.

Palm Springs 146

Palm Springs 149

My being away completed the break in the jobs I was training others to do. I am finally freed from all the administrative duties that have occupied me for so many years of working for my HusPartner. I am free falling. I’m not sure if I’ll look for a job. Maybe.

I have no routine to fall back into. It will be some time before I have the structure of daily “have to’s” built back up around me. Ah so, what will those routines be? I am not sure but I hope they are completely devoted to my own life with colored thread, fabric and yarn.

First I and HusPartner flew into Palm Springs to spend New Years Eve with a few of my family members I had never met or hadn’t seen in many years. So many things to talk about and to share. So many tough things, so many easy things, so many things to process.

Then family all left me alone for a day and my new roommate, Georgene, moved in. Here’s proof she really did work in the evenings after class…

Palm Springs 142

I had never had a sewing teacher other than my mother. The workshops were extremely intense and we worked hard.

Vionnet Draping Class with Sandy Erickson January 3-8, 2009

Couture Tailoring with Claire Shaeffer January 9-14, 2009

Very interesting, very intense sewing and design time. Very intense time with new and old friends.

It provided a great break from my old life, and evolution into my new life.