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Orange Plaid Coat: Marfy 1877 Forties Adventure

More bad weather coming so here’s the coat, just a bit shy of finished:

Orange Plaid Coat from the Back

This pattern is a 40’ish style with raglan sleeves and flare at the vented back center seam and side seams, (my hands in the pockets are pulling the side seam forward), bracelet length sleeves with turned up cuff and patch pockets

Side Showing the Swing

It’s straight sided when viewed from the front

40's Style Front View

front darts at the shoulder, folded to the outside of the coat and top stitched,

Dearts on the exterior of the coat with top stitching

and a modified standing collar,

Modified Standing Collar

And lots of top stitching

Saddle stitching

I had to draft the lining and the back neck facing. I added a rat tail piping at the lining/front facing join but it seemed so small and inconsequential that I added a bigger and much fatter half-inch piping next to the first piping.

Interior Piping and Lining

The lining still needs 2 details to be declared Finished!!!: First the hem needs to be attached via French tacks to the coat hem

Bust Ease Darts or Folds

And the front ease tucks need to be cross stitched down.

The main question about this coat is whether or not my vent lining technique will cause pulling. So far, the answer is no, there’s no pulling.

Interior Back

But I’ll have to wear it a while to test it in action

On and Off, Testing in Motion

My next post will be some of the things I’ve learned in my research on adding a lining to a raglan coat. It’s been quite an adventure to discover a new-to-me vent technique using my older tailoring books.

More construction details to come and some explanation of fitting a lining by hand.


About Mary Beth

I am fascinated by changing patterns and colored threads. I sew garments and am teaching myself to machine knit. Since selling the building that housed my workrooms, The Stitchery, I'm searching for a place to set up the knitting machines again. There must be room here somewhere!

26 responses »

  1. You really did a nice job on the coat.
    Avery handsome garment.
    You amaze me with your wellness.
    Happy sewing.
    m morris

  2. How absolutely, utterly fabulous are you and your new coat!!!!

  3. Wow your Marfy looks so cozy and classy. Love that second picture. You did a beautiful job as usual.

  4. Beautiful in orange plaid! I find vent lining will never pull if you leave a bit of extra length in the lining.

  5. Your new coat looks FAB,with the matching stripes. The colours suits you very well.Nice hairdo too.

  6. You look amazing! I love your hair!
    Your jacket is “beautiful”. The matching is awesome,every detail is done to perfection.

  7. wow, that’s pretty impressive! I love it!

  8. You can tell a lot of work went into that coat. The plaid matching alone is worth mucho kudos. Well done. I also love your hand-stitching.

  9. Oh, MB, that is one awesome coat! You did such a great job matching everything. And I would kill for your hair!

  10. Your coat is beautifully made and looks terrific on you. That hair! It is absolutely gorgeous! I’m anxious to see what you decide to make next.

  11. Your coat is lovely! Thanks for sharing such great work.

  12. hungryzombiecouture

    You outdid your self on that coat – it is gorgeous inside and out!

  13. FABULOUS! …and you look gorgeous!

  14. Stunning coat MB, you really outdid yourself on this one. Just the firs shot of the shoulders and the incredible lines as I scrolled thru on Google reader were a total wow!

  15. It makes me smile, it is beautiful!!!
    Well done!

  16. Thank you for your comment on my jacket, it was a labor of love.

  17. Love it! It is so distinctive and well made – enjoy it.

  18. It looks great! I really like the hand stitching you did.

  19. Very cute coat! You go girl!

  20. Wow, it looks fabulous and you
    did a wonderful job!

  21. hi i just stumbled upon your blog which looks to be full of helpful advice. i have a question about the grademaster, did you get a chance to use it? also did it work? i have been looking every where for a quick and easy solution to grading patterns a few sizes off.

    • Hi Ms Fits: As I said in the post GradeMaster doesn’t seem to be available any more. It works though. Take a look at the other products reviewed by ms Kathleen at Fashion-Incubator. The link is in the article.

  22. GORGEOUS!!!!!! I just love that fabric!

  23. Beautiful.

  24. I found your blog while surfing for info about F.R. Morris’ book Ladies Garment Cutting which I have just bought (it doesn’t have the publication year, but probably around 1935). I love your coat. It shows your tailoring skills are great.
    Best wishes
    from Heather in Melbourne, Australia

  25. Pingback: Marfy Website Updated « The Stitchery

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